Here, we round up five of Cosmetics Design Europe’s highlights from the show, including trends to watch and formats to follow.
1. Our top trends from the show
- Stress reduction and emotions in beauty: how beauty and the brain are connected, and the role of hormones and wellbeing in personal care.
- Biomimicry: the power of inspiration from nature for ingredients creation in beauty and personal care.
- Marine biotech: the focus especially on the sea - from algae, to plankton, to seaweed and more - of biotech in beauty.
- Indie beauty: the rising power of small, niche brands in the beauty industry.
- The skin’s microbiome: the rising interest in the potential of working with the skin’s natural microbiome to open up new opportunities for ingredients, testing methodologies and research and devloppment.
For more on the skin’s microbiome, register HERE to join us at the Cosmetics Design Summit 2019: Skin Microbiome Innovation, a groundbreaking industry conference in June in Amsterdam.
2. Beauty Industry Awards 2019
This year, Cosmetics Design again held its Beauty Industry Awards (BIA) ceremony alongside the in-cosmetics show.
The BIAs honour some of the best innovations in the formulation and ingredients arena, and the leading independent beauty brands.
We reveal the winners for 2019 here.
3. Market-leading launches
Our favourite of the new launches seen on show include ingredients and new initiatives from the manufacturers and suppliers.
We liked DSM’s Tilmar Boost 150 hair care polymer, which boasts visible hair volume with extra care properties, and its new data into the ‘seen and unseen’ of the skin’s microbiome.
We were also impressed by Givaudan’s Agefinity, an anti-ageing active ingredient activated by biotechnology, and Stephenson’s new non-soap noodle, which is ultra mild and taps into trends around balanced pH and soap-free formulation.
Two other ingredients that impressed us were Mibelle’s PhytoCellTec Goji, an active ingredient based on goji plant stem cells which improves cell-to-cell communication via exosomes, and Nouryon’s Amaze SP, abio-based polymer for ‘weightless’ hair styling.
And aside from ingredients themselves, one supplier that has undertaken a particularly exciting new initiative is Codif, whose backing of the Iodysséus project caught our eye. The project looks to advance fundamental research into sea plankton and its properties for personal care.
4. Palm Dialog: BASF
Again this year, BASF gathered industry players across the supply chain to discuss the latest progress towards traceable and sustainable palm oil use in the industry.
Big name manufacturers represented at the dialog event include P&G and L’Occitane, and discussion focused on whether the RSPO demands now go far enough to protect the environment and the labourers involved in the palm oil supply for the beauty and personal care industry.
The general feeling at the dialog was that although progress is being made in this area, there is still work to be done.
5. R&D Tours
This popular feature is dedicated only to R&D professionals working for cosmetic/contract manufacturers or private labels.
Launched last year, the tours are led by an expert guide throughout the show floor, and stop at various ingredients manufacturers and suppliers relevant to the tour’s overall theme.
This year, themes included healthy ageing and protection, and focused on big name trends within the industry.
6. Formulation Challenge
The show’s Formulation Challenge took place again this year, and saw cosmetic manufacturer teams go head to head against the clock to create a brand-new formulation, using only mystery ingredients.
Experts Lorna Radford from Enkos Development and Andrew McDougall, Global Haircare Analyst at Mintel, crowned the winning team on the third and final day of the show.
The winner was Nuxe for their Active Scalp Night Treatment, and the runner up was Hormeta with a YOGA Dreaming Therapy Elixir.