The UK’s organic beauty and wellbeing market has reported its 11th consecutive year of growth, largely driven by shifting consumer mindsets favouring environmentally friendly products, says British charity and certifying body the Soil Association.
Demand for eco-friendly skin care products is high and essential oils hold promise for naturally derived activities, and microemulsion could help improve their performance and stability.
Bee venom and other bee-derived ingredients may hold promise as skin care actives to target smoothness, nourishment and brightness, though commercialisation would require careful attention given allergenicity concerns, say researchers.
Plant extracts offer plenty of active cosmetics promise, but the colourful flowers of some plants also offer up natural dye potential in addition to providing a bioactive punch, say researchers.
Supplementation with a standardized oil from black cumin (Nigella sativa) may significantly improve sleep quality in people with sleep problems, says a new study from India.
Bioprocessed algal cells can break down some hazardous and persistent cosmetic chemical pollutants, including parabens, phthalates and sulphates, but more research is required to fully understand this activity and upscale application, a review finds.
A raft of patents were filed in 2021 from industry heavyweights, including L’Oréal, Unilever, Colgate-Palmolive and Estée Lauder. Here, CosmeticsDesign-Europe rounds up our coverage of the year’s patent-worthy innovations.
SPECIAL EDITION: NATURALS & NATURALLY-DERIVED – SOURCING, CHEMISTRY AND CLAIMS
The natural and organic cosmetics category will continue its growth in coming years, but broader green sustainability issues will become central for brands operating in the space, says the founder of Ecovia Intelligence.
Consumer and regulatory demands are pushing personal care brands to use more botanical ingredients, pulling essential oils further out of fragrance and demanding more research.
Japanese cosmetics company Menard has published a study on the causes of greying hair that suggests that Korean red ginseng and truffle can help prevent the process by targeting pigment stem cells.
Special Edition: NATURALS & NATURALLY-DERIVED – SOURCING, CHEMISTRY AND CLAIMS
As the beauty industry continues its push forward with natural and organic cosmetics innovation, focus must be placed on the biodegradability of ingredients – still surprisingly overlooked in the field, says a formulation expert.
Consumer interest is turning more towards natural and sustainable ingredients, and while plant extracts are a good potential avenue to satisfy that trend, more research is needed to effectively implement natural antioxidants.
India’s Forest Essentials believes its launch with UK beauty e-tailer lookfantastic will help it to boost its international appeal as prepares to expand its footprint to the Middle East, South East Asia and the US in the next few years.
Special Edition: INSIDE-OUT BEAUTY – THE RISE OF EDIBLES AND FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS
Plant peptides, plant hormones and cannabinoids should be more closely looked at for developing dual-action dermal and hair rejuvenation edibles and replacing retinoids that carry several negative side effects, say researchers.
The natural and organic cosmetics category will expand in pharmacies, beauty stores, salons, spas and e-commerce over the coming years, shifting outside of its traditional speciality retail setting, says Ecovia Intelligence.
The number of new skin care product launches incorporating oat kernel extracts and oils for their prebiotic properties to make skin health claims is growing year by year, according to Mintel.
International beauty major has developed a hair styling formulation for curly hair from a blend of sugar compounds and plant fibre, offering a natural and light-weight alternative to film-forming polymer and silicone products.
Finnish startup Innomost is scaling up production of its bioactive compounds from upcycled birch bark, offering a more sustainable alternative to palm, fossil and food origin ingredients for beauty and personal care, its founder says.
A recent clinical trial of postmenopausal women found daily supplementation with Korean red ginseng significantly improved mitochondrial function, antioxidant status, and reduced fatigue within eight weeks.
Australian firm Renovatio Bioscience has launched two new cosmetic products with an enhanced formula that it believes can rival retinol products in terms of efficacy without the tricky side effects.
Whilst intrigue is rising around bio-based sunscreens, not all consumers know enough about certain ingredients and aspects like SPF protection and pricing come up as key concerns, say researchers.
Extracts of Acmella oleracea formulated in an “all-natural” emulsion serum can reduce the appearance of wrinkles within two weeks, says a new study that also supports the safety and stability of the serum.
Extracts from the Southeast Asian tree Thanaka may offer natural alternatives for sun protection, according to a new systematic review from scientists at Jalan Universiti in Malaysia and Lancaster University in the UK.
UK startup The Fellowship has developed a line of inclusive personal care products aimed at overturning outdated masculine ideals and supporting men to take care of their health and wellbeing.
UK natural skin care startup Zero by Skin Academy has expanded onto online beauty retail major Feelunique, continuing its non-D2C growth plan to upscale across multiple channels and engage mass consumers.
Use of essential oils in hair treatments targeting scalp dysfunctions offer promise, though more research is necessary to be certain of their specific active properties, finds a review.
India-based firm The Ayurveda Experience is working to expand its presence in North America and Europe to capture the rising demand for natural and holistic beauty products.
Coconut water brand Vita Coco has expanded into European hair care with a range of shampoos, conditioners and treatments, and its EMEA head says it’s ready to take on the beauty competition.
European Union (EU) marine research consortium Marisurf has released findings from its five-year project, identifying marine microbes as an important means to develop bio-based replacements for surfactants and emulsifiers in personal care, food and pharmaceutical...
There is a gap in the market for skin microbiome solutions to help treat atopic dermatitis, claims biotechnology company Marinova, for which it believes its brown seaweed extract could play a major role.
Special Edition: Cannabis beauty - INnovation and science in CBD and cannabinoids
Digital marketing and communications agency The Beauty Makers has developed a concept range of CBD makeup under its brand incubator that it says plugs real market opportunities and is an organic evolution of current trends.
Croda International-owned Iberchem Group has signed an agreement to acquire French fragrance house Parfex to strengthen sustainable and natural certified offerings and enhance European market presence.
A new study investigating the effects of two organic seaweed extracts on atopic dermatitis (AD), the most common type of eczema, suggests they may alter gene expression when used as a topical solution.
Naturalness is the most important aspect of a beauty product for consumers in Germany and France, but there are mixed views on what the term means and how it translates into cosmetics, finds natural and organic certifier Natrue.
British indie brand Five Dot Botanics has secured listings with The Hut Group on two of its mass beauty sites Lookfantastic and Mankind – a move set to take the natural, minimalist skin care conversation mainstream, its founder says.
A team of Chinese researchers from Sichuan University have developed a liquid foundation made from hemp cellulose nanocrystals to tackle skin barrier damage caused by excessive cleaning.
Demands for natural, organic and effective beauty products developed for acne-prone and blemished skin are rising fast, particularly with the onset of COVID-19 and prolonged mask-wearing causing flare-ups, says the founder of French beauty brand Lady...
The European Commission has added natural hemp-derived CBD to its cosmetic ingredient database CosIng – a move set to bring welcome clarity for industry and spark fresh innovation in the field.
Beauty major Lush has developed a subscription letterbox service delivering an assortment of fresh cosmetics each month with an accompanying posy of flowers – a move it says aims to bring joy and new beauty experiences into the home.
A cream containing Moringa oleifera seed oil was found to increase skin hydration levels by 85% after four weeks of application, according to a new study in Thailand.
Special edition: Holistic Health & Wellness – Formulating for wellbeing and anti-ageing
London-based holistic wellness retailer The Organic Pharmacy recently opened a flagship concept store in Marylebone and has plans to edge deeper into the European market, according to its founder.
There are an exponentially growing number of commercialised active cosmetic ingredients made from plant cell culture technologies that address rising sustainability concerns around energy, carbon and water footprints, say researchers.
Australia’s Down Under Enterprises is seeking success with its Eucalyptus kochii oil in the cosmetics space after it was established as an ingredient by The Personal Care Products Council.
Female consumers in Saudi Arabia are highly aware of organic cosmetics and the environmental implications of these products, but price remains a factor impeding use among many, a study finds.
There was a raft of patent filings this year from industry’s biggest beauty companies, including Unilever, L’Oréal, Beiersdorf and Colgate-Palmolive. Here, CosmeticsDesign-Europe rounds up our coverage of this year’s patent-worthy innovations.
![Despite ongoing difficulties associated with COVID-19 and Brexit, the certified UK organic beauty and wellness market has continued to grow [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2022/03/10/uk-organic-beauty-and-wellness-surges-15-in-2021-with-2022-growth-predicted-says-soil-association/13309948-1-eng-GB/UK-organic-beauty-and-wellness-surges-15-in-2021-with-2022-growth-predicted-says-Soil-Association.jpg)
![Bee venom is a 'pharmacologically active hive product' with plenty to potentially offer as a skin care ingredient [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2022/03/04/bee-venom-skin-care-blend-shows-antioxidant-anti-ageing-promise-in-study/13296817-1-eng-GB/Bee-venom-skin-care-blend-shows-antioxidant-anti-ageing-promise-in-study.jpg)
![The common poppy [pictured] along with safflower and blue pea offered most promise as natural cosmetic dyes, offering stable and permanent yellows, oranges, blues and purples [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/headlines/formulation-science/flower-extracts-for-natural-cosmetic-dyes-that-are-stable-and-active-show-promise-finds-study/13230548-1-eng-GB/Flower-extracts-for-natural-cosmetic-dyes-that-are-stable-and-active-show-promise-finds-study.jpg)
![A firm is exploring the use of local rainforest herbs as cosmetic ingredients. [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-asia.com/headlines/formulation-science/malaysian-rainforest-herbs-vni-scientific-eyes-huge-cosmetic-potential-in-the-rainforests-of-malaysia/13150171-1-eng-GB/Malaysian-rainforest-herbs-VNI-Scientific-eyes-huge-cosmetic-potential-in-the-rainforests-of-Malaysia.jpg)
![The 'majority of algal species' can accumulate carbohydrate compounds and capture chemicals and metals, offering promise for remediation of certain cosmetic chemical pollutants [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/headlines/formulation-science/algae-biotech-for-remediation-of-cosmetic-chemical-pollutants-promising-says-review/13129170-1-eng-GB/Algae-biotech-for-remediation-of-cosmetic-chemical-pollutants-promising-says-review.jpg)
![P&G, Beiersdorf, L'Oréal, Estée Lauder, Unilever and Colgate-Palmolive all filed important beauty patents in 2021 [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2021/12/24/beauty-patents-2021-from-l-oreal-unilever-estee-lauder-and-more-show-tech-actives-and-naturals-focus/13120260-1-eng-GB/Beauty-patents-2021-from-L-Oreal-Unilever-Estee-Lauder-and-more-show-tech-actives-and-naturals-focus.jpg)
![A lot of the natural and organic pioneers are now leading the charge in wider sustainability efforts as well, from circular ingredients to greener packaging [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2021/12/10/natural-and-organic-cosmetics-market-now-focusing-on-sustainability-and-green-beauty-issues-says-ecovia-intelligence/13083984-1-eng-GB/Natural-and-organic-cosmetics-market-now-focusing-on-sustainability-and-green-beauty-issues-says-Ecovia-Intelligence.jpg)
![Menard suggests that Korean red ginseng and truffle can help prevent grey hair. [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-asia.com/headlines/formulation-science/menard-cosmetics-new-study-suggests-red-ginseng-and-truffles-can-prevent-greying-hair/12996194-1-eng-GB/Menard-Cosmetics-new-study-suggests-red-ginseng-and-truffles-can-prevent-greying-hair.jpg)
![The biodegradability of a beauty product - its ability to decompose into simpler substances like CO2, water or ammonia - must be on the green agenda for suppliers, formulators and brands [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2021/11/18/biodegradable-beauty-focus-needed-in-natural-and-organics-before-regulatory-change-says-expert/13026628-1-eng-GB/Biodegradable-beauty-focus-needed-in-natural-and-organics-before-regulatory-change-says-expert.jpg)
![Forest Essentials hopes launch with UK beauty e-tailer lookfantastic will help it to boost its international appeal [Forest Essentials]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-asia.com/headlines/business-financial/forest-essential-sets-its-sights-on-us-sea-and-middle-east-after-uk-launch/12987307-1-eng-GB/Forest-Essential-sets-its-sights-on-US-SEA-and-Middle-East-after-UK-launch.jpg)
![Researchers say there are plenty of plant-based alternatives to retinol that warrant further research, notably plant metabolites, hormones and cannabinoids [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2021/11/05/retinol-alternatives-for-anti-ageing-and-hair-health-include-plant-peptides-hormones-and-cannabinoids-finds-review/12988689-1-eng-GB/Retinol-alternatives-for-anti-ageing-and-hair-health-include-plant-peptides-hormones-and-cannabinoids-finds-review.jpg)
![In France - one of Europe's most important natural and organic cosmetic markets - strong growth has been seen for the category in pharmacies and parapharmacies [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2021/10/14/natural-and-organic-cosmetics-market-europe-to-grow-in-pharmacies-beauty-stores-and-online-says-ecovia-intelligence/12924773-1-eng-GB/Natural-and-organic-cosmetics-market-Europe-to-grow-in-pharmacies-beauty-stores-and-online-says-Ecovia-Intelligence.jpg)
![The number of new skin care products with oat kernel extract or oil is on the rise, particularly those making prebiotic claims [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2021/09/21/oat-kernel-rising-star-ingredient-for-skin-health-claims-in-skin-care-says-mintel/12840341-1-eng-GB/Oat-kernel-rising-star-ingredient-for-skin-health-claims-in-skin-care-says-Mintel.jpg)
![L'Oréal says its formula offers an alternative to polymer-based products that can often be sticky on application and dry stiff [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2021/09/14/l-oreal-patents-natural-sugar-based-hair-styling-formula-for-curly-hair/12818563-1-eng-GB/L-Oreal-patents-natural-sugar-based-hair-styling-formula-for-curly-hair.jpg)
![Innomost has developed a range of functional and active cosmetic ingredients using upcycled birch bark, including birch charcoal, betulin and suberin [Image: Innomost]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2021/09/08/natural-ingredient-startup-innomost-sees-upcycled-birch-bark-promise-for-cosmetics/12802936-1-eng-GB/Natural-ingredient-startup-Innomost-sees-upcycled-birch-bark-promise-for-cosmetics.jpg)
![Renovatio has launched two new APSKIN products with an enhanced formula that it believes can rival retinol products. [Renovatio]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-asia.com/article/2021/09/08/renovatio-claims-new-apskin-products-have-retinol-like-effects-without-the-downsides/12774177-2-eng-GB/Renovatio-claims-new-APSKIN-products-have-retinol-like-effects-without-the-downsides.jpg)
![Sunscreens made using natural polymer lignin - a widely produce by-product of pulp production - face hurdles in consumer acceptance [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/headlines/formulation-science/bio-based-sunscreen-opportunities-and-challenges-found-in-study/12790735-1-eng-GB/Bio-based-sunscreen-opportunities-and-challenges-found-in-study.jpg)
![The Fellowship soft launched last month with a full launch scheduled for September of its natural personal care range aimed at empowering men [Image: Free The Birds/The Fellowship]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/headlines/brand-innovation/men-s-grooming-brand-the-fellowship-launches-natural-personal-care-range-and-eyes-expansion/12682339-1-eng-GB/Men-s-grooming-brand-The-Fellowship-launches-natural-personal-care-range-and-eyes-expansion.jpg)
![Zero by Skin Academy offered a range of 100% natural and vegan products packaged in fully-recyclable packaging [Image: Skin Academy/Zero]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/headlines/brand-innovation/feelunique-adds-uk-natural-skin-care-startup-zero-by-skin-academy/12611447-1-eng-GB/Feelunique-adds-UK-natural-skin-care-startup-Zero-by-Skin-Academy.jpg)
![There is great interest in use of essential oils in trichology - the medical study of the hair and scalp - suggesting plenty of future promise for the market [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/headlines/formulation-science/essential-oils-in-hair-care-as-actives-for-scalp-care-hold-promise-finds-review/12591412-1-eng-GB/Essential-oils-in-hair-care-as-actives-for-scalp-care-hold-promise-finds-review.jpg)
![The Ayurveda Experience is working to expand its presence in North America and Europe. [The Ayurveda Experience]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-asia.com/headlines/market-trends/the-ayurveda-experience-eyes-western-demand-for-natural-and-holistic-beauty-products/12503968-1-eng-GB/The-Ayurveda-Experience-eyes-western-demand-for-natural-and-holistic-beauty-products.jpg)
![There is a gap in the market for skin microbiome solutions to help treat atopic dermatitis. [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-asia.com/headlines/formulation-science/marinova-highlights-unmet-needs-in-the-market-for-skin-microbiome-friendly-atopic-dermatitis-treatment/12350292-1-eng-GB/Marinova-highlights-unmet-needs-in-the-market-for-skin-microbiome-friendly-atopic-dermatitis-treatment.jpg)
![Chinese researchers from Sichuan University have developed a liquid foundation made from hemp cellulose nanocrystals. []](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-asia.com/headlines/formulation-science/chinese-team-develops-easy-to-remove-hemp-based-foundation-to-minimise-skin-damage/12208619-1-eng-GB/Chinese-team-develops-easy-to-remove-hemp-based-foundation-to-minimise-skin-damage.jpg)
