Special Edition: Cannabis beauty - INnovation and science in CBD and cannabinoids
Beauty’s next boom? Spanish agency unveils ‘easy, luxurious and sensorial’ CBD makeup concept Chillist
The concept range of CBD makeup named ‘Chillist’ featured four products – a skin-perfecting jelly cream, concealer, lip oil and liquid lipstick – all made using European organic-certified cannabidiol (CBD) extracted from the stem, seeds or leaves of the plant and completely free from THC (Tetrahydrocannabinol). Developed in-house under The Beauty Makers’ brand incubator TBM Brand Lab, the makeup range had been designed to nourish the skin and deliver vivid colour and natural, uniform finishes.
TBM Brand Lab spent around one year developing the range, adapting to shifting regulations, ingredient access and formulation capabilities. All four formulas were ready for brands to sample.
CBD makeup for the ‘wellness-minded consumer’
Ambra Orini, founding partner of The Beauty Makers and TBM Brand Lab, said: “We wanted to capture some of the beloved uses of CBD, like calming, nourishing, anti-inflammatory, anti-redness and antioxidant protection to enhance product forms already linked to these benefits – for a concealer that visually works on top of the skin while improving the condition of the skin, for example.”
Speaking to CosmeticsDesign-Europe about the Chillest range, Orini said these products targeted “the wellness-minded consumer that wants to incorporate CBD into their routine in a way that is easy, luxurious and sensorial”.
“They want clean, natural-looking skin, and they appreciate the multi-tasking benefit of the products that allow them to eliminate multiple steps while still enjoying the benefits of topical cannabidiol.”
CBD beauty ‘organic evolution’ – makeup-skin care fusion with a dash of luxury
Orini said the makeup range had been developed to “help brands identify future market opportunities by interpreting and moving quickly to capture beauty industry trends”.
Whilst the growth of CBD makeup had been “unquestionably slower than in skin care”, she said TBM Brand Lab had identified two factors that showed clear opportunity for category growth: the makeup-skin care fusion and growing consumer expectations for luxury experiences.
“The makeup-skin care fusion continues to propel colour cosmetics into a functional space, especially as consumers embrace more natural coverage, ‘no makeup’ makeup and nude skin. The growing consumer expectation of a luxury experience [also] forces makeup to evolve and offer new sensorial benefits in order to maintain relevance in a market [that is currently down].
“Incorporating cannabidiol into makeup for luxury positioning, plus complexion enhancing performance, is an organic evolution of these market trends,” she said.
‘So much untapped potential’ – CBD makeup and beyond…
For CBD makeup, Orini said there was “so much untapped potential” and the evolution of ingredient usage, education and transparency around use of CBD was “extremely encouraging”.
“We see CBD makeup as a real companion category to skin care. Category gains can come from linking usage and benefit, so the ingredient has a credible purpose in makeup products. Our CBD concealer, for example, links a traditional concealer usage to the CBD benefits of calming, anti-redness and anti-inflammation,” she said.
“The more we can embrace CBD benefits to enhance makeup product performance and eliminate the need for multiple steps, the more CBD makeup can follow skin care’s path.”
TBM Brand Lab was ready to support brands committed to “maximising the potential of CBD in beauty”, she said, particularly as its benefits became “more established, accepted and desired”.
“Eventually, we would love to explore makeup possibilities across a range of phytocannabinoids, such as CBG, that can provide alternative benefits to CBD or work in tandem to enhance each other’s benefits,” Orini said.