Innovation Zone in-cosmetics preview: SensAmone P5 by Mibelle for sensitive skin
Here, we take a look at SensAmone P5 by Mibelle, with Dr. Franziska Wandrey, Research and Study Manager.
SensAmone P5 is a cosmetic active ingredient designed to calm sensitive skin that overreacts to stimuli such as heat, pH changes and chemicals. Since about half of the population considers their skin to be sensitive, normalizing the skin’s reaction to the environment is an important consumer need that needs to be addressed, according to Mibelle.
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SensAmone P5 is a neurocosmetic ingredient that was created with venom technology: scientific research showed that the venom of sea anemone contains a protein that inhibits the pain receptor in the skin that is responsible for sensitive and overreactive skin.
In collaboration with experts in the field of venom-based drug discovery, Mibelle Biochemistry developed a five-amino acid peptide that contains this pain receptor inhibition activity of the sea anemone venom protein. The peptide was further encapsulated in a special soft sphere carrier system to prevent degradation in the formulation and to improve uptake by the skin.
SensAmone P5 is the first cosmetic active ingredient based on sea anemone venom. Notably, the synthetic peptide allows for a sustainable use of the comforting power of a sea anemone protein without interfering with our precious marine environment.
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In one of the double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical studies, a Neurometer was used. This device measures the current perception threshold of sensory nerve cells in the skin, i.e. how reactive the skin is to an electrical stimulus. By using different frequencies, different nerve cells in the skin can be targeted.
In this case the used frequencies were 250 Hz to target small myelinated nerve fibers that transmit fast pain, temperature and pressure sensation and 5 Hz which targets small unmyelinated nerve fibers that transmit dull pain and temperature, responsible for itching. In this way, the efficacy of a neurocosmetic ingredient can be directly measured.
31 volunteers with sensitive skin applied a cream containing 2% SensAmone P5 and the corresponding placebo cream to their face. Two hours after a single application of 2% SensAmone P5, the current perception threshold was significantly reduced for both frequencies tested (see graph next page). This means that SensAmone P5 instantly normalizes the skin’s reaction and can comfort sensitive skin.