Explaining the ‘hair-ceuticals’ concept and what it means for hair care

By Belinda Carli, director, Institute of Personal Care Science

- Last updated on GMT

Explaining the ‘hair-ceuticals’ concept and what it means for hair care

Related tags: Hair care, Personal care products, Cosmetics

With an increasingly saturated ‘cosmeceutical’ marketplace, raw material suppliers are now providing more and more innovative actives to find new opportunities in the hair care sector.

As little as 5 years ago, cosmetic products could stand out with ‘clinically proven’ claims and quotes of statistical improvements in 28 days; but there is now so much competition in this sector that even the strongest product claims are being drowned out.

We are also seeing an increasing number of high-performing personal care products reach the market place and satisfy consumers – so where to next?

The focus now is turning to delivering the same high-end results and marketability to the hair care sector with a wave of high performing ‘hair-ceutical’ active materials becoming available for modern Cosmetic Chemists.

Plant Science Takes the Lead

Consumers have always loved, and continue to be attracted to, ‘natural’ or plant-based materials. The new demand for active ingredients for the hair is no different; and are often composed of single or blended extracts with hydrolysed proteins and/or amino acids.

Tri-K have recently launched ‘Fision AquaShield’ to strengthen and protect hair in adverse climates, which follows on from their 2015 launch of the multi-functional ‘Baobab-Tein’ - a 5-function hydrolysed protein with proven benefits for multiple hair types and climates.

Belinda photo 2015
Belinda Carli, director, Institute of Personal Care Science

Care of the scalp is also important, with Alban Muller’s ‘Amiderm ER’ and ‘Amiperfect ER’ aimed at balancing the scalp microflora for visible anti-dandruff control.

Effective Even When Washed Off

One of the challenges with active ingredients providing lasting benefits is they commonly need to remain on the skin for prolonged periods to provide results.

With hair products this has only been achievable in the past with ‘leave on’ products – but consumers are now wanting more from their shampoo and conditioner too.

In wash-off products, actives can only be claimed as providing clinical benefits when their use has been proven through wash off studies.

Some of the exciting materials providing lasting results under such conditions include Tilicine (Greentech USA), and Beracare BBA (Beraca) – both of these are Certified Organic ingredients too.

Pollution Protection Important for Hair

Anti-pollution actives have been one of the most recent and fastest growing skin care trends, and we’re seeing this translate to hair actives too.

Latest hair-specific pollution protecting actives include Alariane AD (Seppic) and Puricare LS 9727 (BASF Care Creations) – both based on plant extracts and with clinical data to back up their claims; perfectly suited to the emerging ‘hair-ceutical’ category.

What hair-ceutical trends should we look out for?

We’ll see continued launches of highly active materials to suit ‘hair-ceuticals’ and an increasing number of ‘big-promise-high-performing’ hair care and styling products enter the market place.

We’ll also see an increasing number of styling products with natural actives to protect the hair not only from the damage of styling implements, but with extra hair strengthening properties as well. It’s a growing trend that won’t be washed away.

Related topics: Market Trends, Hair Care

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