Berkem launches Polynektars range of polyphenol-rich ingredients for skin care

Fresh’ka is extracted from strawberry leaves and is particularly rich in polyphenols from the flavonoid family. Claimed to brighten skin and smooth the complexion, it has been developed with a view to be used in facial care products for dull or oily skin with dilated pores.

The ingredient is said to improve skin glow by toning micro-vessels and contributing to better cellular oxygenation, as well as refining skin texture through an astringent effect that helps reduce pore size and tighten skin consistency. According to Berkem, Fresh’ka also gently lightens the skin thanks to its ability to inhibit tyrosinase.

Fresh’ka shown to improve skin brightness and smoothness​

In clinical tests, 20 women between the ages of 20 and 40 applied a cream containing Fresh’ka at a 0.5 percent concentration level to the skin twice a day for 28 days. After 28 days, the company says, the ingredient was found to have improved skin smoothness by 63 percent and skin brightness by 35 percent.

In a second test, 20 subjects tested a cream containing Fresh’Ka and the findings were compared to those of 20 other volunteers who tested a placebo. Some 80 per cent of subjects using the Fresh’ka cream said their skin looked brighter after 28 days and 90 per cent said it made the skin smoother.

Tests were also carried out to establish the effect of Fresh’ka on tyrosinase, the key enzyme in melanogenesis. According to Berkem, strawberry plant extract inhibits tyrosinase activity by 50 percent at a 0.24 percent concentration level.

Origa’light lightens skin and provides UV protection​

The second ingredient in Berkem’s Polynektar range, Origa’light, is extracted from oregano leaves and is particularly rich in polyphenols from the hydroxycinnamic acid family.

It is claimed to lighten the skin by inhibiting tyrosinase, offers protection by absorbing UV rays and helps to prevent skin ageing due to its antioxidant properties. Origa’light is suggested for use in products to correct age spots or pigment disorders and in lightening treatments for the face and hands.

Tests carried out on the ingredient to determine its anti-tyrosinase activity at varying concentration levels showed it to inhibit enzyme activity by 50 per cent at a concentration of 0.7mg/ml, according to Berkem. Meanwhile, in vitro ​tests on murine melanocytes showed a 14 per cent reduction in tyrosinase activity and 13 per cent reduction in melanin synthesis after five days of treatment.

Origa’light was also tested in vitro​ to establish its SPF of 7.14. The ingredient demonstrated very good photostability, the company said, maintaining 80 percent of its photoprotective potential after two hours of irradiation.