Berkem launches polyphenol-based anti-ageing ingredients range

By Simon Pitman

- Last updated on GMT

Related tags: Antioxidant, Skin

A range of ingredients based on antioxidant rich polyphenol extracts from cocoa, grape, green tea and pine bark has been launched by France-based Berkem.

The Berkemyol bioavailable polyphenols is a range of ingredients primarily marketed to provide anti-wrinkle and anti-photoaging properties for a broad range of skin care products.

The range has been extracted from plants that are known to contain high levels of polyphenols, a compound that is known to combat the effects of ageing by limiting the effects of free radicals.

Potentilla root extract

One of the leading actives in the range is is Berkemyol potentilla, which is obtained from a root extract with a concentration of polyphenols said to exceed 95 per cent, and is particularly rich in procyanidolic oligomers.

Likewise, the rest of the Berkemyol range are individually formulated and based around cocoa beans, green tea leaves, maritime pine bark and grape seeds.

As well as the action on oxidative stress, the Berkemyol range has also been developed to stimulate the activity of fibroblasts, collagens and glycosaminoglycans and having anti-glycation, anti-elastase, anti-collagenase and anti-hyaluronidase properties.

Improving cutaneous microcirculation

On top of these functions, the ingredients range is also said to target the stabilisation of elastin, improve the cutaneous microcirculation by strengthening the cell wall capillaries as well as having anti-microbial properties.

One particular challenge the formulators had to overcome at Berkem is the fact that polyphenols oxidize over time, which means that these properties have to be protected for use in cosmetic products.

To improve the stability and bioavailability, Phytovector technology has been used to protect the reactive properties and enable them to be restored once in contact with the skin.

Ex-vivo testing demonstrates efficacy

Berkem says that the efficacy of the Berkemyol range has been measured using ex-vivo efficacy tests for anti-lipoperoxidant to establish the formation of Malondialdehyde in the skin, using a skin sample to establish the effects after exposure to UVB rays.

The company says its testing showed that the antioxidant efficacy of the range is significantly greater at protecting against oxidative stress than vitamin E, while after 8 days the samples showed significant actions at the papillary dermis level, particularly for the stimulation and synthesis of collagen.

Ultimately the ex-vivo testing showed that by reinforcing the dermis blood capillaries, the ingredient range can improve dermal irrigation and capillary tone, in turn improving the cutaneous microcirculation.

Related topics: Formulation & Science

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