Silab launches multifunctional anti-ageing molecule

By Katie Bird

- Last updated on GMT

Related tags: Skin, Epidermis, Dry skin

An extract from Vervein provides a number of solutions for imbalances in the skin and can be used in all core anti-ageing products for face and body, according to the ingredients supplier Silab.

The new ingredient, Vitalayer, helps to strengthen the skin’s barrier function and stimulate dermal metabolism. This can help keep the skin regenerated and hydrated and smooth out wrinkles, the France-headquartered company said.

According to the company, the ingredient helps stimulate keratinocyte differentiation and the synthesis of epidermal lipids.

Vitalayer can drive the synthesis of the proteins cytokeratin-10, involucrin and loricrin, which are all involved in the differentiation of the keratinocytes and the formation of the cornified layer of the skin, Silab claimed.

Maintenance of the skin barrier

In addition, the ingredient can help synthesise intercellular lipids that play a large role in the skin barrier function.

The role Vitalayer plays in the maintenance of a strong skin barrier was tested by the company and following twice daily application for fourteen days, the ingredient reduced water loss following repeated exposure to sodium laureth sulfate (SLS), known to perturb the skin’s barrier function, compared to a placebo.

Furthermore, Silab claims that the ingredient helps stimulate the synthesis of connective proteins such as collagen I and III, and fibrillin-1 among other components of the dermis.

Skin more toned and firm

The company tested a Vitalayer-containing product in a placebo controlled study on 25 volunteers in order to gauge whether the effects on the skin were noticeable to participants.

According to the study, volunteers applying the 3 per cent Vitalayer product to the face noticed more toned skin, firmer, skin in comparison to the placebo. In addition, 88 per cent said they noticed an improvement in their crow’s feet wrinkles, compared to just over 70 per cent of those using the placebo.

When applied to the dry skin of the calves, 3 per cent Vitalayer also performed better than the placebo in the eyes of volunteers. Most found their skin was more supple, and softer and more hydrated than with the placebo.

Vitalayer is part of the ‘Silab actives you can’t perform without’ range, joining other anti-ageing ingredients such as Pro-Coll-One + which was launched in October last year.

The high performance actives that will make up the new range are selected by in vitro​ studies investigating the stimulation of specific biomarkers, and are then validated by in vivo​ tests, the company claimed.

Related topics: Formulation & Science, Skin Care

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