DuPont launches bio-based exfoliating ingredient at in-cosmetics

By Katie Bird and Leah Armstrong

- Last updated on GMT

Related tags: Polylactic acid, Lactic acid, Dupont

Last week’s in-cosmetics trade show in Paris was the launching pad for DuPont’s new bio-polymer exfoliating ingredient made from corn starch.

According to the company, the ingredient, Gotalene RS 400, has all the benefits of traditional thermoplastic exfoliators but is both bio-based and biodegradeable.

Made from 100 percent polylactic acid (PLA) derived from plant sugars rather than crude oil, the company hopes the exfoliator will appeal to formulators of natural products, and argues that it has certain advantages over plant material such as kernels.

“Often plant material, even if it has been rounded down and smoothed off, can be very sharp and lead to microlacerations of the skin,”​ Marcel Melis, regional sales manager for DuPont explained at the show.

In addition, natural plant material can be very difficult to dye and colors will often leach out into the formulation, whereas the Gotalene RS 400 holds colors well, he added.

“The pigment is bound within the thermoplastic, just like the more traditional exfoliants,”​ he told CosmeticsDesign.com USA.

Furthermore, there is no need to sterilize the material as it does not support bacterial growth.

The ingredient joins the Gotalene range of exfoliators made from low and high density polyethylenes. It is one of the harder exfoliating ingredients in the range and for this reason the company suggests it is used for body products.

However, Melis did explain that decreasing the concentration of the powder in a formulation would reduce the exfoliation provided by the product, and could allow it to be used for facial care products in some markets.

‘Renewability’ was the main attraction

It was the ingredient’s ‘renewability’ that attracted the attention of visitors at the show, complementing the growing trend for natural and organic products, according to DuPont’s corporate account manager Andrea Vassalotti.

However, Vassolotti said, ‘Sustainability is not necessarily bio or natural. DuPont uses life cycle analysis to consider the true benefit of natural polymers and other products. Polymers and ingredients derived from chemical synthesis still play a dominant role if they offer high levels of purity, conform to specification and stringent regulations with highly efficient processes​.’

The company also showcased GlyPure at the show, an ultra pure form of glycolic acid that can help hair feel softer and prevent breakages. Although the ingredient has been well known in skin care for many years, its effect in hair care has not been explored in detail.

CosmeticsDesign.com USA reported on DuPont’s research into glycolic acid for hair in December and can be found here​.

Related topics: Formulation & Science

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