Glycation comes to the surface in skin when sugar attaches itself to collagen making skin stiff and inflexible.
Inhibiting glycation to reduce signs of ageing
Lipotec claims that its new ingredient Vilastene, which is targeted at formulators of high end and masstige products, inhibits the glycation of collagen and therefore improves the flexibility of the skin.
Product manager Cristina Davi told CosmeticsDesign.com: "Vilastene blocks the glycation of proteins by inhibiting the Maillard reaction. This spontaneous, non-enzmatic reaction leads to a modification of side chain residues of proteins, and consequently to cross-linking and skin ageing."
Researchers carried out in-vitro tests on Vilastene to demonstrate how the ingredient inhibits glycation. Lipotec said the tests proved that Vilastene inhibits glycation and also indicated that Vilastene would inhibit vimentin glycation.
Davi said the tests on Vilastene were performed with collagen but because vimentim strongly resembles collagen, the results are expected to be a good indicator of the ingredient's ability to inhibit vimentin glycation.
Vimentin glycation is the glycation of vimentin, a protein belonging to the intermediate filaments family that pays a key role in the upkeep of cell structure.
By inhibiting the glycation of collagen and vimentin, Lipotec claims that Vilastene slows down skin ageing and gives skin “a younger and healthy appearance”.
Lipotec focuses on Molecular Cosmetics
Vilastene joins a line of active ingredients conceived of three years ago by Lipotec called Molecular Cosmetics. Lipotec said the core of its business is now focused on the active ingredients that fall under this umbrella.
These ingredients are all molecules specially tailored to reach specific targets in order to make skin more beautiful and youthful.
Market researchers Mintel pointed to this trend for highly targeted ingredients in a report published last month on the anti-ageing market in the US.
“The latest launches are more detailed and scientific in their claims, ingredients and projected benefits,” said Kat Fay, senior beauty and personal care product analyst at Mintel.