Activated apples: Biotech firm Renovatio claims new APSKIN products have retinol-like effects ‘without the downsides’

Renovatio was founded in 2016 and has a range of health, wellness and beauty cosmetic products that contain activated phenolics extracted from apples.

This ingredient is extracted using a technique developed by Renovatio founder and technical director Dr Vincent Candrawinata, which extracts the phenolic antioxidants with water. The result is an antioxidant that is water-based and not chemically synthesised.

The company offers cosmetic products under the APSKIN brand which previously consisted of a single skin cream. The latest products to join this August are the APSKIN Face Ultra Antioxidant Cream and Body Ultra Antioxidant Cream.

The original cream could be used for both face and body, but the company saw a need to refine its previous product to suit both types of skin, which differ in terms of texture and structure.

The face cream was developed to meet the more refined cellular needs of the face and its delicate dermal layers, while the body cream was designed to meet the needs of areas that require intense support such as elbows, hands and knees.

Retinol rival?

After three years, Candrawinata believes that the company has “perfected”​ its cosmetic formulations, which can be used to treat skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis.

Additionally, the product can be used as a skin ageing care cream. The company claims it has the effects of retinol, but without the side effects usually associated with it, such as skin photosensitivity and dryness.

“We achieved that cellular configuration and revitalisation without making the skin more sensitive. Essentially, we have achieved what retinol does which is improve fine lines, sagginess and dark spots without the downsides of making the skin more sensitive – I consider this a personal achievement,” ​said Candrawinata.

The company was able to achieve this by increasing the concentration of its activated phenolics in the formula.

It was unable to publicly share the exact percentage increase, though CosmeticsDesign-Asia​ understands it was by a significant amount.

The previous formulation contained 25% of the active. It is estimated that 100ml of the product is equivalent to the extract of 500 apples.

The formula is also aided by a ‘smart’ delivery system that detects moisture in the skin levels and deploys the right amount of hydration to the skin.

“This delivery mechanism makes sure it delivers the most moisture, but at the same time, it doesn’t leave the skin oily or sticky. This is probably one of the best features according to our customers who struggle with stickiness of creams,” ​said Candrawinata.

The formula also contains a highly absorbable form of hyaluronic acid.

"Typical Hyaluronic acid molecules are not very well absorbed by our skin, making it useless. And in some people, the non-absorbed hyaluronic acid actually can cause a bad skin reaction. Some companies use smaller molecules of hyaluronic acid to try to make it more absorbable, but low molecular weight hyaluronic acid has a pro-inflammatory effect on the skin. Our technology is different in that it helps the hyaluronic acid to be on the different layers of skin and activates it as our skin needs it. The hyaluronic acid relies on the carrier because it doesn’t contain moisture itself," ​he explained.

Moving forward, the company aims to tap into the opportunities it sees for its active ingredient in the beauty and personal care market by expanding its range further to include products such as an eye cream.

Last year, Renovatio inked a deal worth with supermarket chain Woolworths to stock its health and wellness products. This August, the company will extend its partnership in a A$10m (U$7.39m) deal to stock APSKIN in around 1,000 stores across Australia.

The new APSKIN products are expected to ship out in October to Singapore, Indonesia, Malaysia and Vietnam. The company is hoping to launch in Hong Kong shortly as well.