Writing in the international patent, Beiersdorf said it had developed a leave-on, nourishing skin cream formulation that provided an alternative to typical paste-like or fluid moisturising cosmetics on the market. Using a blend of carefully selected powders and oils, its formulation enabled the manufacture of “bouncy creams, which could be described as ‘marshmallow creams’”, it said.
“Said creams are very soft, silky, smooth, powdery and leave a dry feeling on the skin, without any feeling of wetness and stickiness,” Beiersdorf wrote.
‘Significantly less complex’ formula
Whilst some similar cosmetic preparations had started to come to market, Beiersdorf said current formulas remained “very complex” with extensive INCI listings.
“One aim of the present invention was to develop a formula which is significantly less complex,” it said, along with improving the sensory properties compared to those already on the market.
The look and feel of the skin care cream, it said, should be “bouncy and creamy” with an “elastic texture” that was persistent throughout use.
Lipophilic and hydrophilic powders key
Beiersdorf said the formulation incorporated at least one oily component; one hydrophilic powder; and one lipophilic powder and the interactions between these ingredients were the key.
Hydrophilic powder, it said, played an important part in the final sensory properties of the formulation, for example. “Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the hydrophilic powder is a main part in providing the bouncy texture and the smooth sensory properties of the product,” it wrote in the patent filing.
Ideally, hydrophilic powder represented 5-20% by weight of the total formulation, Beiersdorf said, and was selected from a non-modified starch.
The lipophilic powder was also of importance because of its interaction with the oily component of the blend, it said. “Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the lipophilic powder causes a thickening of the oily component(s) and thus contributes to provide a preparation having a structure. In addition, the lipophilic powder by interacting with the oily components reduces or prevents an oil feeling of the preparation and an oily feeling on the skin.”
Ideally, the lipophilic powder represented 14-19% of the formulation by weight and was selected from inorganic powders and silicone based crosspolymer powder. The interaction between the lipophilic powder and dimethicone crosspolymer, if used, also helped generate “the elastic and bouncy texture”, the company said.
Beiersdorf said its skin care formulation could also incorporate substances to absorb UV radiation, dyes or colour pigments and perfume.
WIPO International Patent No. WO/2020/062117
Published on: April 4, 2020. Filed on: September 29, 2018.
Title: “A cosmetic preparation with unique sensory properties and an appealing appearance”
Inventor: Beiersdorf Daily Chemical – L. Yan and L. Fasong