Belinda Carli provides training in cosmetic formulation, brand management and regulatory affairs around the world - presenting and exhibiting at various events to support the personal care industry.
At in-cosmetics Asia, this publication stopped her on the show floor to discuss this rapidly evolving segment.
CD: For those that didn't make it to your presentation in Bangkok, what was the take home message?
BC:One of the most important aspects of my presentation was illustrating the concept of using multi-functional materials to save on purchasing extra raw materials, which not only saves on upfront cash flow but also warehouse floor space.
Also saving on reduced dispensing and mixing time as multi-functional materials mean instead of measuring out 3 - 5 materials, you only need to measure out one, and savings through purchasing on economies of scale - purchasing larger quantities of one material vs purchasing smaller quantities of three-five different materials.
CD: What sort of launches are we seeing in this area?
BC: In 2015, we're seeing multi-functional care in the form of body washes that provide 24hr moisture; mascara and eyeliners comprised of actives that boost lash growth; colour cosmetics like a bronzer that can be used as a foundation - it's all about one product that offers various functions!
The hair sector is the next emerging category to go multi-functional, take KCC Beauty's : SeraShine EM 301-E for example.
The cationic macro emulsion of an amino functional silicone polymer is designed for a wide range of hair care formulations including shampoos, conditioners, styling aids and hair colourants.
In hair care products amodimethicones give improved substantivity and deposition compared to standard dimethicone products providing easy combing, a silky sheen and soft feel.
CD: What are the 'go to' raw materials for formulators in this category?
BC: Certain actives are now finding their place in products they weren't previously used in.
For example, for coloured lip plumpers and lash extending eye colour - many of these actives previously existed but are now being included in colour bases.
Also, bronzing colourants and pearlising agents are appearing in multi-functional colour. These previously existed but are now formulated in very different ways.
We're also seeing more polymeric emulsifiers that enable cold process w/o and o/w emulsion formation with enhanced sensory benefits and outstanding stability, meaning less materials to create stable emulsions that feel great and savings on materials and labour time as heating is not required.
For example, Novemer polymers, Pemulen Polymers and Abil EM.
CD: Are there any new ingredients trending that came as 'news' to in-cosmetics Asia attendees?
BC: Alfa Sucragel: this is an absolutely amazing material that enables 'certified' green/organic and natural products that simply couldn't be created before without this technology.
Sucragel is a natural, liquid emulsifier and oil thickening agent based on sugar chemistry and it has the ability to gel almost any non-polar ingredient and turn it into an oily gel.
It can also act as an emulsifier and also turn oils to milks when it is added to water, for example in baths or when rinsed off. This material just didn't exist as a 'green' substance before.
BC: Lucas Meyer: Biophilic H is a patented natural lamellar O/W system based on the emulsifying properties of phospholipids combined with other vegetable lipids, allowing the formulation of white and odourless emulsions from cream to butter.
The lamellar emulsion mimics the lipid structure of the stratum corneum for a perfect skin affinity. Biophilic H acts as a “second skin” and therefore helps to restore the cutaneous barrier of damaged skin.
The emulsion made with Biophilic H melts on the skin during the application and forms a restructuring film which reduces TEWL.