According to a company spokesperson, ‘Effipulp’ featuring hydrolyzed avocado protein also has maltodextrin which stimulates the endogenous synthesis of hyaluronic acid to restore volume to mature, dehydrated and stressed skin.
The peptide concentrate is produced through enzymatic hydrolysis of defatted avocado pulp. After freeze-drying, a stabilised powder in an organic maltodextrin carrier is obtained. “The result is a dry, water-soluble extract that has a composition of peptides with low molecular weight <10 kDa.”
“The active stimulates proteasome activity, enabling cells to recover their original functions and is capable of reducing the accumulation of senescence-induced oxidized proteins, by increasing thioredoxin gene expression by 177 per cent. In addition, it increases proteasome activity (elimination system) by 43 per cent.”
The ingredient is also said to boost the synthesis of hyaluronic acid and proteins to ensure good cohesion of the stratum corneum. In addition, it stimulates the synthesis of filaggrin and transglutaminase, two compounds essential for proper cohesion and resistance of the stratum corneum.
Trials and tribulations
Conducting a randomized, double-blind study, researchers gave 49 women with dry, sensitive skin at an average age of 49 a cream formulated with 0.6 per cent of the active or a placebo cream.
The creams were applied twice-daily to facial skin for 56 days, and the plumping effect was assessed by quantifying the variation in epidermal volume using the optical coherence tomography technique, which reconstructs the epidermis in 3D via high-resolution images.
“Where the placebo had no significant effect, application of the cream with the active resulted in a 6.1 per cent increase in epidermis volume. The active is recommended at 0.1 - 0.6 per cent in anti-aging, plumping and detoxifying skin care.”
With 30 years’ experience in vegetal raw materials, Laboratoires Expanscience develops plant active principles and extracts. They are the subject of rigorous biological and clinical tests, patent registrations and scientific publications.