Silab’s new anti-ageing ingredient based on soya proteins

The France-headquartered company has launched a natural active ingredient called Pro-Coll-One+ that uses glycopeptides from soya to help stimulate collagen synthesis in the skin.

One of the first actives in a new range from the company called ‘Silab actives you can’t perform without’, the company claims Pro-Coll-One+ was selected from a range of 300 potential candidates.

The high performance actives that will make up the new range are selected by in vitro​ studies investigating the stimulation of specific biomarkers, and are then validated by in vivo​ tests, the company claims.

In the case of Pro-Coll-One+, Silab says in vivo ​tests show that its efficacy matches ingredients such as Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 and retinol.

Stimulate synthesis of collagen I​

According to the company’s in vitro​ tests, the Pro-Coll-One+ can stimulate the synthesis of collagen I in normal human fibroblasts by 1190 per cent. Silab claimed that when tested at similar concentrations, collagen synthesis was the same for the new ingredient and palmitoyl pentapeptide-3.

After 56 days of twice daily applications to study participants, the ingredient at 2 per cent concentration reduced Sa and Sq parameters - parameters of 3D roughness, Sa is arithmetic mean of surface roughness and Sq is quadratic mean of surface roughness - by 9.8 per cent and 9.5 per cent respectively, the company said.

When compared to 3 per cent palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 and 0.075 per cent retinol, skin smoothing was comparable after 56 days of treatment.

These molecules were used as comparisons as they are known to be efficient anti-ageing ingredients, according to a spokesperson for Silab.

"It [​Pro-Coll-One+] provides a high-performance level of efficacy on a well known marker such as collagen I for a proven anti-wrinkle benefit. Its efficacies (both in-vitro and in-vivo) are comparable or superior to molecules which are references on the market,"​ the spokesperson told CosmeticsDesign-Europe.com.

"Moreover Pro-Coll-One+ is the natural solution. It is composed of purified and characterized active molecules (Soybean HRGPs) and no unpleasant side effects when tested in-vivo on volunteers have been noticed,"​ the spokesperson added.

Study participants also reported noticing the benefits of a formulation containing the new ingredient, with 78 per cent saying their crow’s feet were smoother compared to the placebo.