The France-headquartered company has launched a natural active ingredient called Pro-Coll-One+ that uses glycopeptides from soya to help stimulate collagen synthesis in the skin.
One of the first actives in a new range from the company called ‘Silab actives you can’t perform without’, the company claims Pro-Coll-One+ was selected from a range of 300 potential candidates.
The high performance actives that will make up the new range are selected by in vitro studies investigating the stimulation of specific biomarkers, and are then validated by in vivo tests, the company claims.
In the case of Pro-Coll-One+, Silab says in vivo tests show that its efficacy matches ingredients such as Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 and retinol.
Stimulate synthesis of collagen I
According to the company’s in vitro tests, the Pro-Coll-One+ can stimulate the synthesis of collagen I in normal human fibroblasts by 1190 per cent. Silab claimed that when tested at similar concentrations, collagen synthesis was the same for the new ingredient and palmitoyl pentapeptide-3.
After 56 days of twice daily applications to study participants, the ingredient at 2 per cent concentration reduced Sa and Sq parameters - parameters of 3D roughness, Sa is arithmetic mean of surface roughness and Sq is quadratic mean of surface roughness - by 9.8 per cent and 9.5 per cent respectively, the company said.
When compared to 3 per cent palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 and 0.075 per cent retinol, skin smoothing was comparable after 56 days of treatment.
These molecules were used as comparisons as they are known to be efficient anti-ageing ingredients, according to a spokesperson for Silab.
"It [Pro-Coll-One+] provides a high-performance level of efficacy on a well known marker such as collagen I for a proven anti-wrinkle benefit. Its efficacies (both in-vitro and in-vivo) are comparable or superior to molecules which are references on the market," the spokesperson told CosmeticsDesign-Europe.com.
"Moreover Pro-Coll-One+ is the natural solution. It is composed of purified and characterized active molecules (Soybean HRGPs) and no unpleasant side effects when tested in-vivo on volunteers have been noticed," the spokesperson added.
Study participants also reported noticing the benefits of a formulation containing the new ingredient, with 78 per cent saying their crow’s feet were smoother compared to the placebo.