New class of bio-lipids for use in cosmetics formulations

By Katie Bird

- Last updated on GMT

Related tags Chemistry

An Illinois based biotechnology firm is launching a class of
natural bio-lipids off the back of its soy based sunscreen
discoveries; promising to deliver the benefits of active
ingredients that have previously been unsuitable for use in
cosmetic formulations.

Scientists from the company iSoy Technologies, have developed a molecule with sunscreen properties, known as FSG33 - the result of joining a compound found in the soy plant with ferulic acid.

The ferulic soy glyceride (FSG) is produced through a unique enzyme reaction, which according to the company produces no toxic by-products, unlike the usual synthetic chemical reaction.

A variation of FSG made its commercial debut earlier this year in an anti wrinkle formulation marketed by a cosmetics company in New York, and iSoy now propose to use the same technology to create many other bio-lipid molecules, as well as continuing to market the possible applications of FSG.

The bio-lipid molecules, when applied to the surface of the skin, act as a reservoir for essential nutrients from which depleted skin can replenish itself as it needs, explained company president Raymond Willis.

"The core idea of our technology is to allow natural actives that have no lipid form, or a very poor lipid form, to be converted into useable lipids that are skin friendly with an ability to stay in the skin for long periods of time" Willis told CosmeticsDesign.com.

The original innovation, FSG33, exhibits strong antioxidant properties and neutralizes harmful UVA rays, explaining the interest in the compound as an anti-aging ingredient.

Furthermore, the FSG molecules appear to improve the solubility, stability and delivery of other skincare actives such as vitamins, thereby helping to transport the nutrients into the skin.

In addition to the anti-wrinkle formulation, iSoy is currently testing a natural FSG soap bar that, according to Willis, has seen outstanding results, with many users reporting the products ability to improve the quality of extremely dry and rough skin.

The company expect to market this particular attribute of FSG in formulations where the consumer might encounter particularly harsh environmental conditions.

In addition to FSG, the company is exploring the potential of other bio-lipids, aiming to create at least 25 new molecules based on the same technology, and are currently searching for industry partners.

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