Karlshamns launches range of emulsifiers
ingredients for cosmetics with the launch of 11 emulsifier
ingredients based on edible lipids. The functional emulsifiers are
said to deliver aesthetic and skincare benefits to cosmetic
formulas, writes Simon Pitman.
The company is choosing next week's In-Cosmetics show - held in Berlin 12-14 April - to launch the emulsifiers, to be known as the Akoline range. They are a combination of natural, vegetable and functional emulsifiers based natural raw materials. Fatty acids and glycerides derived from vegetable oils make up the oil soluble capabilities, while water soluble capabilities come from glycerol, citric acid, lactic acid or polyglycerol.
Karlshamns says that all of the emulsifiers are of food grade and some also conform to European Pharmacopoeia regulations.
"This new range of emulsifiers compliments our existing range of lipid ingredients," said Rita Leissner, Karlshamns spokesperson. "Cosmetics and personal care companies are looking for both emulsifiers and lipids for formulations as the emulsifiers are used to regulate the lipids, which means the range extension should make things easier for many players.
"Because our emulsifier range is derived from natural materials their mildness means that they can be used in formulations for both baby skins and sensitive skins as well as haircare applications. Equally two of the emulsifiers - Alkoline GC and SL- have bioactive properties that have been clinically proven to firm skin, which means they will could play a part in anti-ageing formulations."
Karlshamns says that because the Alkoline range of emulsifiers form liquid crystal structures they make excellent stabilizers, ensuring good consistency in cream and lotion formulations. On top of this they also provide the key aims of all emulsifiers - to create and stabilize emulsions, both for oil-in-water as well as water-in-oil formulations.
The new range can be divided into four groups. The first is based on citric and lactic acids derived from glycerides and fatty acids. These emulsifiers allow for a slow release of alpha-hydroxy acids on the skin in a measured way, while minimizing irritancy.
The second group consists of polyglycerol esters that are said to contribute to good emolliency and skin feel, while the third group consists one emulsifier, sorbitan tristerate, which is used to modify crystallisation of lipids. The fourth group comprises monoglycerides used as basic emulsifiers for lipid-based formulations.
