Inside the rise of ingestible beauty and the science driving it

Beauty from within
Omega fatty acids continue to be relevant because of their association with lipid balance and inflammation. (Getty Images)

Cosmetic scientist and director of innovation for beauty-from-within brand Urenew explains how nutricosmetics are reshaping skin health from the inside out.

As more shoppers look for beauty solutions that take an inside-out approach, the beauty-from-within movement continues to gain followers. In recent years, the beauty industry has become increasingly science-focused, and more people now understand the link between the gut, the brain, and the skin.

According to Rinki Pramanik — a cosmetic scientist, influencer, and director of innovation and product technology at the beauty-from-within brand Urenew Beauty UK — if traditional skincare is about tending to the surface, nutricosmetics are about changing the conditions beneath it.

“The shift sounds subtle, but it reframes beauty entirely,” said Pramanik. “Skin is no longer treated as an isolated layer. It becomes the visible endpoint of deeper systems — connective tissue, lipid barriers, immune signals, and, increasingly, the gut microbiome.”

Pramanik says that although this idea isn’t new, the way it’s being explained is. The language around ingestible beauty has become clearer and more aligned with how the body actually works.

How collagen, ceramides, and microbiome actives support the skin

One trending ingredient in this space is collagen, which Pramanik notes is often described as the skin’s scaffolding. “That image is useful,” she says. “In youthful skin, this scaffolding is dense and organized, helping the skin stay firm and elastic. Over time, that structure becomes thinner and less coordinated.”

According to Pramanik, when collagen peptides are consumed, they’re broken down into small fragments that aren’t simply deposited back into the skin. Instead, research suggests they may act as signals, interacting with fibroblast cells that help maintain the dermal matrix. She referred to a 2023 meta-analysis of clinical trials that reported improvements in skin hydration and elasticity following collagen supplementation over several weeks.

“A helpful way to think about this is not as replacing bricks in a wall, but as prompting the maintenance crew to do their job more efficiently,” she said. “The structure is still the body’s own. The supplement is part of the conversation happening within it.”

Pramanik also highlighted the increased popularity of ceramides and how this has shifted the focus from structure to protection. “If collagen sits deeper in the dermis, ceramides operate at the very surface, within the stratum corneum,” she explained. “Here, skin cells are surrounded by lipids that function like mortar between bricks, limiting water loss and protecting against external stress.”

When this lipid matrix is disrupted, the skin can feel dry, reactive, or uncomfortable. Oral ceramides have been studied for their ability to support this barrier from within. “In a review of dietary supplements for skin hydration, ceramides were associated with increased moisture levels and reduced trans-epidermal water loss, or TEWL. TEWL is essentially a measure of how much water escapes through the skin,” said Pramanik. “Lower values suggest a more intact barrier.”

Why nutricosmetics and topical skincare work better together

The beauty-from-within category is gaining credibility today because these effects are not discussed only in visual terms. “Hydration can be measured using corneometry,” Pramanik explained. “Elasticity can be assessed by observing how skin returns to shape after deformation. Barrier function can be estimated through TEWL.”

This offers a biologically grounded answer for claims that once felt purely cosmetic.

Meanwhile, the body’s microbiome brings a different level of complexity to the conversation. The gut microbiome is often described as an ecosystem, but it behaves more like an active biochemical network. Trillions of microorganisms in the digestive tract continuously interact with the immune system, produce metabolites, and influence how the body responds to stress and inflammation.

The gut–skin axis describes how signals from this internal ecosystem can influence the skin. “When the microbiome is balanced, immune responses tend to remain regulated,” said Pramanik. “When that balance shifts, inflammatory signals can increase and travel systemically, sometimes appearing in the skin as sensitivity, breakouts, or flare-ups.”

Pramanik said that a useful analogy is to think of the gut as a central control room. It doesn’t directly “touch” the skin, but it sends instructions that shape how the skin behaves. If the signals are stable, the system runs smoothly. If they become noisy or dysregulated, the effects can surface elsewhere.

The skin and gut microbiome can be thought of as invisible influencers, constantly shaping how skin behaves without being directly seen.

These microbial ecosystems help regulate inflammation, support barrier integrity, and influence how the immune system responds to internal and external stressors. When they are balanced, the skin often appears more stable and resilient. When they’re disrupted — through factors such as diet, stress, antibiotics, or environmental exposure — the signals they send can shift toward inflammation and imbalance.

That doesn’t mean nothing can improve the skin in those moments, but it does mean that surface-level interventions may be working against a less supportive internal environment. In that sense, restoring balance to these invisible systems becomes part of creating the conditions in which skin can function, repair, and respond more effectively.

“This is where probiotics and postbiotics enter the picture,” said Pramanik. “Probiotics introduce live microorganisms that may help support microbial balance. Postbiotics — defined by international consensus as preparations of inactivated microorganisms or their components that confer a health benefit — offer a slightly different approach. They deliver the functional outputs of microbes without requiring them to remain alive in the product."

Interest in microbiome-focused nutricosmetics reflects a broader shift in how beauty is being understood. Skin concerns such as dryness, sensitivity, or acne are no longer viewed only as surface-level issues. They are increasingly seen as linked to inflammation, immune balance, and barrier integrity — processes that extend beyond the skin itself.

What nutricosmetics are mainstreaming now?

Pramanik highlighted that collagen remains the most widely used ingredient because it offers a clear and familiar narrative around firmness and aging. Ceramide-based supplements align with the growing focus on barrier repair and hydration. Omega fatty acids continue to be relevant because of their association with lipid balance and inflammation. At the same time, microbiome-related products are gaining attention as consumers become more aware of the gut–skin connection.

“What is changing is not just what people are buying, but how those products are being positioned,” she said. “The category is moving away from broad promises of ‘beauty in a bottle’ toward more specific, biologically framed benefits such as hydration support, barrier resilience, or microbiome balance.”

However, Pramanik does not think ingestibles will completely replace topical skincare, as the two operate in different but complementary ways. Instead, she believes that topical products act directly on the skin’s surface, making them essential for protection and immediate effects, while nutricosmetics work more gradually, influencing the internal environment that supports skin function.

“A simple way to see it is this: topical skincare adjusts what the skin is exposed to, while nutricosmetics influence what the skin is built from and how it responds,” she said.

For Pramanik, the growing emphasis on the gut microbiome brings that idea into sharper focus. Skin is not an isolated organ. It reflects the state of interconnected systems involving nutrition, immunity, and microbial balance. “As that understanding deepens, nutricosmetics begin to feel less like an optional add-on and more like part of a broader approach to skin health,” she said. “Not a replacement for what sits on the surface, but a way of shaping what lies beneath it.”


In‑cosmetics Global 2026 will take place from 14–16 April at the Paris Expo Porte de Versailles, France. Pramanik will participate in the event’s panel discussion entitled ‘From gut to glow: scientific and strategic advances in nutricosmetics’.