Ahead of international ingredients show, in‑cosmetics Global, which will take place in Paris this April, we spoke to some of the world’s leading cosmetics ingredient suppliers to get an insider look at their new launches. Here’s what you can expect...
Blue biotech longevity skin care
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant is launching AlgaSurge™, a blue‑biotech active offering a vegan alternative to HA and PDRN for enhanced skin longevity.
According to Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, its polysaccharides resist enzymatic degradation, delivering longer‑lasting benefits. High molecular weight sulphated polysaccharides create a protective film, while low molecular weight fractions and PDRN penetrate deeper to stimulate pro‑collagen I and HA production and support autophagic flux.
The company also said that clinically, AlgaSurge boosts plumpness after one application and improves density, barrier strength, radiance and wrinkle appearance.
Bio‑inspired smart hydration
French company Expanscience is launching OSMOLYA®, a natural bio‑inspired active extracted from Iresine weberbaueri.
Rich in betaine and polyphenols, it supports the skin’s osmoregulation pathways by boosting osmolyte transporters and reinforcing barrier function.
Clinically, Expanscience said it improves hydration in both skin and hair, helping protect curls, reduce frizz and rehydrate fibre structures.
Salt-free taurate surfactant
The Swiss cosmetics ingredients company Clariant will unveil a mild, salt‑free taurate surfactant that creates a silky feel and rich foam, which is ideal when formulating luxurious, cream‑format shampoos.
Clariant told Cosmetics Design that it also plans to showcase new concepts linked to the rising ‘beauty hacking’ trend.
Longevity‑driven cellulite innovation
Spanish cosmetics ingredients company Provital is launching Intensilk™, the first cosmetic active designed to mimic caloric restriction in adipocytes. Derived from locally sourced apple flowers, it reprogrammes lipid metabolism by triggering pathways linked to caloric restriction and autophagy. Multi‑omic analysis confirms downregulation of the PI3K–Akt–mTORC1 axis and stimulation of lipophagy.
In vitro and in vivo studies show comprehensive action across cellulite mechanisms, including reduced adipogenesis, improved lipolysis, boosted collagen and elastin, smoothed dimples and improved firmness, elasticity and hydration. Results were enhanced when paired with mechanical massage.
Hair glycogen and alpine longevity actives
Swiss biotech specialist Mibelle Biochemistry will debut PhytoSpherix, a corn‑derived hair glycogen designed for all hair types and colours. The ingredient supports hair fullness, growth and overall longevity.
The company will also present EpiSnow, a high‑altitude‑sourced skin care active offering longevity benefits.
New film formers, rheology modifiers and natural systems
The UK-based company Elementis Personal Care will introduce three new materials:
NATURALUXE™ MFF – a biodegradable film former providing water and wear resistance, enhanced SPF retention and smooth pigment dispersion.
BENTONE® LUXE DM – a D5‑free stabilising gel for W/O and W/Si systems with elegant textures and cold‑processable formats.
BENTONE® ULTIMATE CCC – a naturally derived rheology modifier offering strong pigment suspension and formulation flexibility.
Elementis said it will also formally introduce natural rheology modifiers company Alchemy Ingredients, which it acquired last November, and is expanding its natural technology platform with its Sucragel®, Sapogel®, Clearthix® and Sclerothix® systems.
AI‑supported ingredient discovery and biodegradable systems
Lubrizol will showcase its “ReAImagines Beauty” platform, combining digital tools with sustainability‑focused ingredient design.
Innovations from the US-based company will include:
- A multifunctional sustainable hexapeptide, designed with AI and Green Chemistry principles, targeting PAR 1 attenuation and seven facial soft tissues for improved eye contour support.
- A biodegradable oil‑phase rheology modifier offering strong thickening, suspension and clarity across multiple categories.
- A biodegradable cationic cellulose‑derived rheology modifier for cationic surfactant systems in hair and skin cleansing.
Human‑centred creativity meets phygital beauty
Vantage told Cosmetics Design it will present “the perfect recipe” for phygital cosmetic design, based on three conceptual pillars and 15 disruptive concepts developed from big‑data analysis. The campaign includes five ingredient launches:
- Stratasync Jojoba – a jojoba cake ferment for anti‑ageing.
- Scalphix Ox Guard – an antioxidant for scalp care linked to hair density.
- Azenova – an evolved azelaic‑acid‑based active for troubled skin.
- Distinctive Mac – an upcycled sensorial silicone alternative with a powdery feel.
- Equilibrium Green – a preservation system with a naturality profile.
“Last year we were very impressed about the number of suppliers using AI for every poster, copy or image of their booths,” explained Beto Pino, Vice President, Technical Marketing & Innovation for Personal Care of Vantage.
“We reflected a lot about how AI can accelerate our industry, but we want to convey in what aspects are not negotiable to be driven by humanity: expertise creativity and empathy. So our campaign it’s called Beautiful Empathy,” he said.
Advanced HA‑engineered delivery systems
Givaudan Active Beauty is highlighting VectorHyal™, a hyaluronic‑acid‑engineered delivery system offering enhanced performance and stability.
“VectorHyal™ introduces a delivery system that enables custom creation of unique and exclusive ingredients for brands,” Mathias Fleury, Head of Category – Actives, notes at Givaudan told Cosmetics Design. “The patented platform encapsulates hydrophilic or lipophilic actives and enables transparent serum formats.”
Fleury said VectorHyal uses high molecular weight HA to dock to CD44 receptors and deliver actives into deeper skin layers, releasing them via an enzymatic trigger. He added that ex-vivo data show seven‑fold improved penetration and distribution reaching 70 μm into the epidermis for precise, sustained release.