Key takeaways on new crosslinked HA research for cosmetics
- New research shows crosslinked HA acts as a biocompatible penetration enhancer.
- At 0.03%, it increases delivery of hydrophilic skincare actives into the skin.
- Offers dual benefits: hydration plus improved bioavailability of actives.
- Supports minimalist, barrier‑friendly formulations by reducing ingredient load.
- Potential applications include anti‑ageing, hyperpigmentation, and dermocosmetic skincare.
- Crosslinked HA can increase effectiveness of other skin actives, says study
A new scientific study undertaken by researchers from personal care business Colgate-Palmolive and bio-analytical company Aliri demonstrates that crosslinked hyaluronic acid is more than just a humectant and can function as a biocompatible, surface‑active penetration enhancer that could increase the effectiveness of other skincare actives.
Opportunities for formulators seeking multifunctional ingredients
The research, which was published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, reports that topically applied crosslinked HA at 0.03% can enhance skin penetration of other actives. This could be important because traditional high‑molecular‑weight HA generally acts at the skin surface due to its size. The ability of crosslinked HA to support penetration suggests altered physicochemical or film‑forming properties that could modify percutaneous absorption pathways.
According to the research from the French- and US-based scientists, there is an opportunity to use crosslinked HA not only for hydration but also as a functional delivery system. There is also potential to improve the bioavailability of poorly penetrating actives without changing core formulations or adding harsher chemical enhancers.
The researchers noted that crosslinked HA still provides its well‑known hydration and skin‑protection benefits, making it a multifunctional material. This means that this single ingredient may be able to provide dual action: barrier support and enhanced delivery.
For cosmetics formulators, this new discovery about crosslinked hyaluronic acid could offer new opportunities for efficacy‑driven claims, simplified ingredient lists, and more efficient delivery systems.
The findings could be especially useful for minimalist or ‘skin‑barrier friendly’ formulations that require fewer ingredients.
Due to its penetration‑enhancing effect, crosslinked HA could be especially valuable in anti‑ageing formulations to boost actives; hyperpigmentation treatments (increasing delivery of tyrosinase inhibitors); and efficacious dermocosmetic or medical‑adjacent skincare.
“Crosslinked HA was shown to boost the topical delivery of a variety of skincare actives into porcine and human skin explants,” explained the researchers. “Specifically, it can boost the topical delivery of hydrophilic but not lipophilic actives into the skin, a phenomenon we attribute to its strong water binding capacity.”
The team said it hypothesises that crosslinked HA’s ability to enhance topical delivery is due to both its strong hydrating properties and its film-forming behaviour, a mode of action that was further explored by AFM analysis. “Crosslinked HA can also boost the topical delivery of a medium‑molecular‑weight HA species, as demonstrated by MALDI-MSI; such a phenomenon can be helpful in boosting the overall benefits of HA present in many cosmetic formulations,” said the team.
There will now be further research to explore other actives whose topical delivery can be enhanced via the incorporation of crosslinked HA, as well as investigating other materials with similar topical delivery benefits to crosslinked HA.
A Cohen et al; International Journal of Cosmetic Science; 19 January 2026
