Key takeaways on the future hair care innovation
- Hair care has accelerated, outpacing skin care and colour cosmetics in recent years.
- Global growth reached 3.2% (2021–2024) vs 1.9% (2016–2019), driven by premiumisation and skinification.
- Mass players are following with efficacy and ingredient‑led launches.
- Scalp care is expanding fast: night serum SKUs up ~300%; scalp serums/treatments up 200% (2022–2025, Amazon tracking).
- Hyaluronic acid, ceramides, niacinamide feature prominently; dermatological claims matter more than “clean”/“natural”, with greenwashing concerns noted.
- Dermocosmetics in hair care is early stage; examples cited include Vichy, Nioxin and a recent CeraVe hair care entry in the US.
- Category saturation is likely; brands will need proven quality, brand experience, and personalisation beyond formulations/ingredients.
This month, CosmeticsDesign aired a special broadcast on ‘Future Hair Care Innovation’ to discover more about the latest technology and ingredients shaping the category, as well as the trends and consumer needs driving innovation.
For this, we were joined by a host of industry experts including Christine Hall, VP of Global Hair Care and Colour Research at Estée Lauder Companies; Claire Wilson, Commercial Education Director for the EMEA Region at Kao Corp’s Salon Division; and Connor Spicer, Beauty & Consumer Health Care Consultant at Euromonitor International.
Read on to discover Spicer’s expert insights into the future of the hair care market. To watch the full interviews for free, sign up here.
Cosmetics Design-Europe (CDE): Hi Connor, What have been some of the most significant shifts in consumer behaviour in the hair care category in recent years?
Connor Spicer (CS): I would say there are two overarching shifts. The first and most significant is that consumer interest – and subsequent spending – in this space has rapidly accelerated over the past few years. Globally, hair care has moved from being a stagnant category, often grouped with segments like bath and shower as low-growth spaces, to seeing stronger growth than skin care and colour cosmetics in recent years.
Pre- and post-pandemic statistics illustrate this perfectly. Between 2021 and 2024, hair care globally recorded growth of 3.2%, a notable upturn from the 1.9% recorded between 2016 and 2019. This increased spending can be directly linked to consumers showing greater interest and awareness of their hair’s needs, alongside a better understanding of the specific products and routines required to achieve this. As such, shoppers are willing to spend more money on their hair than ever before, partly driven by premiumisation within the category.
Premium hair care brands are currently the primary driver of growth, but we’re now seeing mass-market players starting to follow suit with launches focused on efficacy and ingredient-led beauty.
This rise in premiumisation is closely linked to the ‘skinification’ trend, where hair care brands increasingly adopt skin care principles in terms of formats and active ingredient-led formulations.
CDE: Are there any specific hair care brands you’ve seen that are doing premiumisation really well right now?
CS: Yes, I’d argue the best place to look is through recent acquisitions in the premium hair care space over the past 12 to 18 months. Large beauty players are capitalising on this dynamic trend. The biggest example is probably L’Oréal acquiring Color Wow earlier this year in June, which comes as no surprise. The brand experienced the highest growth rate among care brands globally over the past five years, thanks to its high-performance solutions for colour-treated hair.
These higher-quality products have been accompanied by strong social media engagement and influencer partnerships, helping the brand gain significant traction among consumers – particularly on social platforms, which continue to influence behaviour and purchasing patterns. Since L’Oréal acquired it, the brand has performed very well in H2.
Another example is K18. The biotech hair care brand has gone from strength to strength since Unilever acquired it at the start of last year. Its products are created using biotechnology, combining scientific precision with efficacy to meet consumer expectations. People want proven results that address their specific needs.
CDE: What about emerging subcategories or formats that are gaining traction at the moment? Anything you’ve spotted there?
CS: Hair care brands are increasingly adopting skin care principles, and we’ve seen a lot of format innovation in the scalp space. Much like multi-step skin care routines, hair care is becoming more segmented, with an increasing variety of product formats designed to maximise results. Innovation now centres on the idea that the scalp is an extension of the skin and that healthy hair begins with a healthy scalp.
This has led to brands expanding beyond traditional shampoos and conditioners into formats such as scalp serums and scalp tonics formulated specifically for scalp health. Between 2022 and 2025, we’ve tracked Amazon sales and seen about a 300% rise in the number of night serum SKUs listed, while scalp serums and treatments are also up over 200%. Companies believe there are real opportunities in this emerging space – it’s a fascinating development.
CDE: And what about technologies and ingredients? Are there any you’re watching closely at the moment in hair care?
CS: Most of the growth we’ve seen globally within beauty in recent years has been ingredient-led. Consumers are doing more research and understanding what they’re buying, and this is now true for hair care. Skin care ingredients, because of the focus on scalp health, are increasingly incorporated into hair care formulations and positioned as key selling points by brands.
For example, hyaluronic acid – widely recognised for its skin benefits – is now front and centre in hair care products. Ceramides are being used to support scalp health and nourish hair, while niacinamide has shown the fastest expansion since 2022, with online SKUs containing the ingredient up more than twelvefold. Niacinamide’s ability to maintain scalp health by reducing inflammation and strengthening the scalp barrier has made it popular among both consumers and brands.
We’re also seeing growing demand for specific claims, such as “dermatologist-tested”, rather than “clean” or “natural”, which are now considered standard across beauty and personal care. Defining “clean beauty” has become increasingly difficult, as greenwashing tactics persist. Brands that want to position themselves as clean and natural must demonstrate this through initiatives and campaigns rather than vague claims.
Dermatological positioning is another area of interest. In skin care, this has driven growth in recent years, and hair care is following suit – albeit at an early stage. Currently, only a few brands, such as Vichy and Nioxin, operate effectively in this space, but this is starting to change. For example, L’Oréal recently expanded its Cerave range – a popular skin care brand – into hair care in the US. The range has been clinically tested, developed with dermatologists, and formulated for sensitive scalps. In Q1 2025 alone, over 160,000 units were sold online.
This suggests that more well-established, scientifically backed skin care brands could migrate into hair care. However, the definition of “dermocosmetics” is also blurring, with some brands claiming dermatologist testing without robust evidence. Ultimately, proven results, efficacy, and scientific backing will be key.
CDE: In your view, what does the hair care market look like in the next five to ten years?
CS: That really depends on the country. Markets such as the UK, US, and potentially APAC are at the forefront of premiumisation and skinification trends. Meanwhile, other markets – particularly in Western and Central Europe – are still at the start of this journey, with consumers transitioning from mass to premium entries. This means short-term growth potential is very positive.
In the mid- to long term, it’s useful to compare hair care with skin care, as hair care is earlier in its evolution. What’s happening in skin care now is likely where hair care will be in five to ten years: greater consumer knowledge and education around ingredients and technologies, driven by platforms like TikTok. This has led to private-label lines, dupes, and value-driven brands entering the space, causing market saturation.
We’re already seeing this in the UK hair care market. For example, hair bonding – pioneered by Olaplex – has faced share losses over the past two years due to the emergence of more affordable options like L’Oréal’s repairing range.
My final message for the mid-term: as the hair care space becomes increasingly saturated – which it will, as more players target this category – brands will need to look beyond formulations and ingredients to succeed. They’ll need to focus on proven quality, brand experience, and personalisation to entice consumers.
