Key takeaways
- Kids’ skincare is trending, but experts warn against strong products.
- Lush co-founder advocates gentle routines and minimal preservatives.
- Acne and skin changes during puberty are natural, not always clinical.
- Overuse of potent skincare can harm children’s skin barrier long-term.
- Ethical brands like Lush have put a focus on child safety and skin health.
In light of the recent social media frenzy generated by the launch of K-Beauty-inspired brand Rini – which has created fun-filled and dermatologist-tested products made with natural ingredients that are aimed at children aged three and over – the debate continues.
As the Sephora Kids 2.0 debate rolls on, the co-founder of influential British skincare brand Lush, Helen Ambrosen, explores the phenomenon and comments on some of the deeper societal issues driving this discussion.
Ambrosen shared her views with Cosmetics Design, based on her experience as a beauty brand founder with three decades of experience. The brand, with its fun-filled range of bath bombs and beyond, has long been popular with teenage beauty shoppers and their caregivers, so is well qualified to share insights on this space and the ethics surrounding it. It is also a brand that takes action on ethical issues – for example, it withdrew all presence from social media, despite this being a useful marketing channel, as it felt it was damaging to young people.
“At the beginning of Lush 30 years ago, we had young children and watched as they grew whilst we worked at creating a product for every need – and this included everyone’s skin,” said Ambrosen. “Everyone’s skin, however, is not like the skin of a child. That’s why we’re appealing to parents to give your children’s skin the best possible chance to grow and flourish – just like your child.”
The rise of kids’ skincare: what’s driving the trend?
Ambrosen acknowledges that it is difficult, in these times of social media, to convince children that a simple routine with gentle actions and fresh ingredients with minimal or no preservatives is going to ensure happy skin that will continue through life. But essentially, she says these principles will give skin the best chance to develop, having had the best possible start.
She highlighted that in the UK, while a growing number of children and teenagers will experience skin complaints at some point, for the majority these complaints will not be chronic or lead to a diagnosis of a skin disease. She explained that acne vulgaris is the most common skin condition affecting teenagers globally, and so is a good example to consider.
“Up to 95% of teenagers report they have acne, but only 14.65% of adolescents and young people were diagnosed with the condition in the UK in 2021,” she said. “Some of this may be due to people not seeking a diagnosis, but it does indicate that young people’s perception of their skin and the medical perspective may differ.”
“That personal perception is important though, because breakouts and blemishes, while completely natural for this stage of life, can cause distress and lead to young people seeking out strong products they don’t need and that may even worsen their concerns,” she continued. “A visit to the GP or a dermatologist who specialises in skin disorders would be the way to go to gain the support needed for more serious problems.”
Safe skincare practices for children and teens
Prior to puberty, unless managing a skin condition, Ambrosen said that children’s skin usually needs very little attention. “Washing with warm water and a cotton wool pad is usually adequate to remove dirt and shed dead skin cells, and of course a sunscreen is advisable in mid-to-high UV conditions.”
She also said that gentle oils like almond and coconut oils can be used to cleanse with warm water and a flannel if required. “Put a few drops on to a flannel and dip in warm water and pat on to the skin gently to cleanse and relax the face or body,” she advised. “Or just plain water – that will often be enough!”
“Often as puberty approaches, skin becomes oilier and more spot-prone. Hormonal changes can make the sebaceous glands larger and produce more sebum. As we have more sebaceous glands on the scalp, face, chest and back where they are usually attached to hair follicles, these are the areas that tend to feel greasier. To make matters worse, puberty hormones also increase the production of keratin (the protein that forms the bulk of hair fibre), and this makes follicles prone to blocking, leading to spots. Because we are generally better fed than generations before us, puberty is occurring earlier than it used to, and this can bring about some of the changes that make young people reach for skincare and makeup.
“Young people using makeup need to remove it carefully but thoroughly. The use of oils and thick, leave-on pomades on the hair to bring moisture to curls and coils can also lead to hairline breakouts (so-called pomade acne) if not gently removed from the skin and scalp frequently. Gently cleansing the face morning and night (and the scalp frequently) will remove build-up to keep the skin fresh and clear.”
Ambrosen notes that Lush’s Dream Cream body lotion, which has been proven to be suitable for sensitive and eczema-prone skin from ages three and above, has been designed to be used on kids’ skin. She also said that in a clinical trial, 85% of parents reported reduced redness, dryness and irritation on their child’s skin, and significant improvement in redness, dryness and scaling was observed by the trial dermatologist.
Lush also has a gentle and non-irritating beeswax and almond oil cleanser, Ultrabland, which can be used on children aged nine and above to thoroughly remove makeup, dirt and excess oil from the skin, while being incredibly gentle and non-stripping.
“There are skin issues in earlier years which need attention – but they do not need the sort of strong products increasingly used by children and teenagers,” she said. “This is a new phenomenon so no-one can really predict the long-term damage a routine that is too strong at an early age can do.”
Ambrosen finishes by saying that the cosmetics industry in 2025 is filled with strong products that were once only available via prescription or from a dermatologist. “It’s concerning that these products are now available for home use for adults rather than with expertise from a dermatologist, let alone for children who have a less mature skin barrier and smaller body mass, making them more susceptible to irritation, allergy and skin barrier damage,” she said.
Her final thought is that while parents can certainly show their child what good skin is, they should also let them grow up without worry and teach them how to be happy in the skin they are in. “They deserve this start in life, and so does their skin,” she said.