7 trends influencing colour cosmetics & skincare innovation

Beauty and sensory experiences
Although there has long been a link between beauty and sensory experiences, this is now influencing cosmetics NPD more than ever. (Getty Images)

At the Luxe Pack Global show in Monaco this week, formulations expert Luisa Oliva revealed what is currently influencing the makeup R&D landscape and why.

Key takeaways

  • Younger shoppers are reshaping the beauty landscape with demand for fun, sensory-rich products.
  • Minimalist formulations are now seen as luxurious and technically advanced.
  • Biotech ingredients and clinically proven actives are driving innovation.
  • Clean beauty is evolving into high-tech, sustainable formulations.
  • K-Beauty is experiencing a revival with high-performance, playful products.
  • Packaging is becoming a key differentiator, blending function and self-expression.

As an in-demand R&D and Technical Marketing Consultant and pharmacist, Luisa Oliva is well placed to share her expertise on the current colour cosmetics trends shaping the market.

According to Oliva, in recent years the colour cosmetics market has been shaped by new brands that are quickly skyrocketing to fame. Many of these have gained sudden popularity either thanks to social media virality and/or celebrity owners. Some of the examples she gave are Byoma, Haus Labs, Summer Fridays, Rare Beauty and Glossier.

She also highlighted the fact that makeup shoppers are becoming younger. “Twelve-year-olds are asking for products from these brands and switching from toys straight to makeup,” she explains.

Beauty trends
Oliva shared what's trending in beauty at the Next Gen Beauty Bar at the annual Luxe Pack show in Monaco. (William Reed)

Here she outlines the main trends that are currently shaping the category.

Minimalist

“The details lie in elegance and simplicity,” she explained. “Brands are trying to move away from excess to cater to a generation that values simplicity and transparency.”

Oliva highlighted that previously, brands like Dior and La Prairie were considered high-end because they had many exclusive ingredients. But now there has been a switch, and the more minimalist a formulation is, the more luxurious it is perceived to be. “A minimalist formula is actually more complex to do,” she explained.

One example she gave was Triclone Skin Tech Medium Coverage Foundation by Lady Gaga’s brand Haus Labs. “This product is completely different as it gives coverage but is also very light – like a second skin,” she shared.

Other examples of colour cosmetic launches that fit with this trend are Rhode Beauty Pocket Blush and Saie Glowy Super Gel.

Haus Labs Lady Gaga
Lady Gaga's brand Haus Labs has created a minimalistic product in terms of formulation and packaging, which portrays a new kind of quiet luxury. (William Reed)

Food & emotions

Oliva said that although the connection between beauty products, food and emotions has been present for a long time, this link with sensory experiences is being seen more than ever today.

One example she gave was the viral popularity of Summer Fridays lip gloss, which from her perspective has “the perfect balance between texture and flowers.”

She noted that the cherry version of this gloss has been a sell-out and that most Gen Z beauty shoppers will have a Summer Fridays lip gloss in their makeup bags.

Other products that fit this trend included: Glossier Balm Dotcom, Beauty of Joseon Ground Rice Honey Mask, Before Noon Glazing Milk.

Summer Fridays
The cherry-flavoured and scented Summer Fridays Lip Balm has been a viral bestseller for the Californian brand. (William Reed)

Science-driven efficacy

“Customers are more informed than ever and looking for proven ingredients that have been clinically tested,” explained Oliva. She also highlighted the growing popularity of biotech-based formulations in the colour cosmetics and skincare categories that have very innovative formulations.

One example that stood out to her was Laneige Bouncy & Firm Sleep Mask, which features a Peony & Collagen Complex and peptides that help boost and preserve collagen. Other brands innovating in this space included Drunk Elephant, Paula’s Choice, Dr Jart, and Glow Recipe.

Biotech impact & extreme actives

On the note of biotech, Oliva drew attention to the use of different science-led active ingredients in formulations.

“For me it’s very important to know the difference between microbiome, postbiotic, exosomes and probiotic,” she explained.

“Microbiome modulates immune response and protects against pathogens; postbiotic competes with pathogenic bacteria and modulates inflammation; exosome facilitates intercellular communication, modulates skin regeneration; and probiotic is anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, strengthens skin barrier and modulates microbial environment.”

Brands innovating in this space included Venn, Dermalogica and Noble Panacea.

Fun & playful products

For Gen Z beauty shoppers, beauty products stand out when they are fun-filled, in colourful shapes, or emotive and iconic in some way.

One example Oliva gave was Fenty Beauty Grip Trip: a skin primer for under base makeup that features two types of textures, which means it is difficult to formulate in terms of stability, but is also fun, colourful and playful.

Clean & functional beauty

While clean beauty has been trending for nearly a decade, Oliva said it is still relevant and that products have moved from simply being clean to being both clean and efficacious and/or high-tech and more sustainable. “Safe for people and safe for the planet too,” as she puts it.

One example Oliva gave was MILK Makeup’s Kush Tubing Mascara – a clean formula mascara made with natural ingredients that ‘tubes’ on the lashes, so it is easy to simply remove the ‘tubes’ with just water.

Along with MILK Makeup, other brands she noted in this space were: The INKEY List, Typology and Drunk Elephant.

Drunk-Elephant-furthers-Asian-expansion-with-Tmall-launch-in-China.jpg
With it's clean formulations and brightly coloured packs, Shiseido's Drunk Elephant encompasses multiple beauty trends. (@Drunk Elephant)

K-Beauty: the return

K-Beauty is currently enjoying a revival, after its first wave of popularity back in 2017.

And Oliva said that this is due to “High-performance products that are often very fun and have attractive packaging.”

Notable brands included: Anua, Mamonde, Medicube and Beauty of Joseon.

What’s new in beauty packaging innovation?

Oliva noted that nowadays: “Packaging must shine on the shelves and screens.” For her, there are three clear trends in beauty packaging right now. These were:

  • Packaging as a gadget or an add-on, such as collectible charms.
  • Fun-filled soft and round shapes. For example brightly coloured, rounded caps on fragrance bottles.
  • The use of very bright colours. “Colour is self-expression,” she explained. “For Gen Z this is both functional and cultural. This type of packaging is made to be shared as much as to be used.”