Debut Biotechnology has launched a plant cell biotechnology platform that enables the creation of fragrance ingredients, from simple isolates to complex blends, without the need for traditional cultivation.
Debut founder and CEO Joshua Britton, PhD, spoke to CosmeticsDesign and explained that the platform is engineered to address long-standing challenges in the fragrance supply chain, including variability in raw materials and the environmental impacts of conventional sourcing.
“Debut’s plant cell biotechnology replicates the molecular profile of complex ingredients with high purity and precision and achieve the perfect balance of compounds to match the original profile,” Britton said. “Our end-to-end capability spans plant species selection to the establishment of stable plant cell suspension cultures and the detection of key ingredient molecules, all in under a year.”
Orris as proof of concept
The first ingredient produced using this platform is orris, a high-value fragrance material traditionally derived from the root of the iris flower. Orris is among the most expensive perfume ingredients on the market, fetching up to $100,000 per kilogram due to its lengthy five-year cultivation cycle, Britton explained.
“We have achieved proof of concept with orris,” he said. “Orris is a highly complex mix of molecules, and our plant cell biotechnology platform replicates the olfactive profile of this soft, warm, powdery floral with utmost precision, allowing us to prove the capabilities and potential of our technology.”
Supply chain stability and sustainability
Britton positioned the platform as a solution to sourcing issues worsened by climate change and global supply chain instability.
“Debut’s plant cell biotechnology platform solves one of the fragrance industry’s toughest challenges: sourcing high quality, high purity, molecularly consistent and renewable ingredients that are not extracted from the earth or derived from petroleum-based processes,” he said.
The technology also reduces the need for pesticides and harsh chemicals, and requires minimal water, land and energy inputs. “Our biotech ingredients are created in safe and highly controlled conditions that expend minimal energy,” he added.
Enabling novel ingredient discovery
Beyond replicating existing ingredients, the platform may also unlock new creative possibilities in fragrance formulation.
“Plant cell biotechnology will enable the creation of novel fragrance molecules that expand the perfumery palette in exciting new directions and confer differentiation and uniqueness to fragrance brands,” said Britton.
With regulatory pressure increasing on natural raw materials, Britton believes there will be additional value in using biotechnology to safeguard and evolve fragrance development.
“The twin forces of AI and biotechnology will protect and elevate the perfumery palette, and even create clinically-backed neuroscents that are designed to elicit physiological responses,” he said.
In terms of next steps towards commercialization of the platform, Britton says that the company’s fragrance ingredients will be incorporated in market products in approximately two years.
