Across the CD-Verse: May 2025

A monthly roundup of cosmetics and personal care news from around the world.

Compliance and consumer trust emerged as key themes in the global beauty market this month, amid growing pressure to clarify claims, tighten sourcing, and prevent the sale of counterfeit goods.

In Asia-Pacific, brands are leveraging scientific innovation and regional plant ingredients to drive product appeal, from Grabity’s continued shampoo sell-outs in Taiwan to the Japan debut of sisua’s spicule-based lip tint, positioned as an alternative to microneedling.

In EMEA, industry stakeholders are responding to growing scrutiny of ingredient claims, with regulators warning against misleading “PPD-free” labels in hair colorants. The UK beauty sector, facing a surge in skin cancer cases, has shifted its focus to sun care, while brands like Maybelline and NYX are gaining visibility through social-first marketing.

In the Americas, companies face increasing regulatory complexity, ranging from evolving CPSC oversight to tightened US border controls targeting counterfeit goods. Lush’s pivot away from mainstream social media is also under review, as the brand reports rising engagement across owned digital platforms.

CosmeticsDesign APAC

‘Alternative to microneedling’: sisua brings spicules-containing lip tint to Japan

Launched in April 2023 as a sister brand of vegan cosmetics brand unleashia in its domestic market, sisua is known for its skin care-infused point makeup products.

This comes after a pop-up event held at beauty retailer @cosme in Osaka last June, where the product was first introduced to the market. “It was very well received and we had a lot of feedback immediately after its release. In particular, we received many requests for a restock, so we have now decided to officially launch it,” sisua said.

CLEAR debuts scalp-focused range in China to meet rising demand for premiumisation

With evolving consumer demands and diverse needs for scalp health, simply focusing on cleansing is no longer sufficient to satisfy their desire for a premium experience.

“The key to a healthy scalp lies in fundamental repair at the cellular level. CLEAR is now focusing on cell science. The Scalpceuticals Pro Range embodies the brand’s 50 years of scientific research, and unites the efforts of five global labs and more than 200 dermatologists,” said Elsharkawy Mohamed, Hair Care Marketing Director of Unilever China and Global Vice President of CLEAR.

This series features a “revolutionary” cellular-level hair repair technology matrix that is designed to precisely target the core issues of oiliness, dandruff, and sensitivity, helping to build a healthy scalp environment.

Shampoo sensation: South Korea’s Grabity continues sold-out streak with Taiwan launch

The brand is owned by Polyphenol Factory, a start-up founded in 2023 by renowned MIT scientist Professor Haeshin Lee and researchers from the Korea Advanced Institute of Science & Technology (KAIST). The firm has been working on the development and commercialization of products derived from natural polyphenols, including the launch of Grabity in April last year.

Since its release, Grabity’s flagship product, Hair Lifting Shampoo, has surpassed 1m units in production and raked in KRW20bn (USD15m) in cumulative sales. It has also set several records, including running out of stock in 39 minutes at Olive Young, ranking first in “anti-hair loss shampoo” searches on Naver, and selling out 17 pre-orders.

Sephora boosts APAC portfolio with Haus Labs by Lady Gaga launch in SEA, Oceania and HK

According to Jenny Cheah, Managing Director of Sephora South East Asia (SEA) and Oceania, and India, Haus Labs’ innovative, clean, science-driven, and cruelty-free products sit at the intersection of three key beauty trends that the retailer is seeing in the region.

“Sephora partners with brands whom we love and believe in. The expansion of our long-standing collaboration with Haus Labs is a testament to Sephora’s capability in elevating and scaling beauty brands globally, which underpins our ability to provide a differentiated offering,” Cheah told CosmeticsDesign-Asia.

Shampoo containing Asian plantain provides hair health benefits, cuts shedding - RCT

The researchers, from Korea, reported: “The test group demonstrated progressive improvements in hair strand thickness (0.009 mm, 0.017 mm, and 0.020 mm at weeks 4, 8, and 12, respectively) and hair density (0.9 hairs/cm2 at weeks 4 and 8, 1.1 hairs/cm2 at week 12).

“Additionally, a significant reduction in hair shedding was observed compared to the placebo group.”

The researchers’ previous studies had found that Plantago asiatica L. positively influenced several biological mechanisms related to hair growth. Notably, it enhanced the production of growth factors such as VEGF (vascular endothelial growth factor), KGF (keratinocyte growth factor), and FGF (fibroblast growth factor), which are known to play critical roles in follicular development, cellular proliferation, and angiogenesis.

CosmeticsDesign EMEA

Misleading hair colour with PPD alternatives: a ticking timebomb for manufacturers

PPD itself is a widely used ingredient in permanent hair colorants. Although it is not always present in hair color products, PPD or related ingredients such as PTD, MePPD, or other derivatives can often be present in darker hair colorant shades.

As a result, after the ruling, the CTPA issued a warning to cosmetic manufacturers about making claims about PPD-free hair colors, noting that if a hair colorant contains PPD, or a related hair dye, by law the product also has to be labelled with “Contains phenylenediamines” or “Contains phenylenediamines (toluenediamines)” to alert users with a PPD allergy that the product is unsuitable for them.

Revolution Beauty lowers profit forecast despite business restructure

The UK-based cosmetics brand Revolution Beauty’s full-year revenue reached around £141.6m, dropping from the previous year following the discontinuation of more than 6,000 SKUs as part of its strategy to streamline operations and focus on a core product range.

The CEO, Lauren Brindley, plans to step down from the position on May 31, after 18 months in the role, and will take on a new role at Ulta Beauty as Chief Merchandising and Digital Officer

UK beauty industry focuses on sun care as skin cancer cases soar

The All-Party Parliamentary Group (APPG) for Beauty and Wellbeing – a UK-based cross-party group of MPs – has launched an inquiry into UV safety in a bid to give the public more protection from UV damage.

The group is issuing a call for written evidence from stakeholders across the beauty and healthcare sectors, as incidences of skin cancer continue to rise in the country.

Which beauty brands are most popular in the UK?

Digging deeper into brand popularity among consumers, Leonora Eckley, account director for FMCG and beauty at Carma, noted some interesting shifts, particularly in brand rankings and their use of various media platforms.

Eckley said that Maybelline New York and NYX Professional Makeup are both experiencing significant growth, with Maybelline seeing the most impressive jump, rising 16 places from 20th to 4th.

“This was primarily driven by its strong focus on social media, especially around the launch of the Super Stay Teddy Tint; the product accounted for 19% of the brand’s coverage in 2025, showing how strategically leveraging platforms like Instagram and TikTok can boost visibility,” she shared.

Are men really buying more beauty supplements?

As more male shoppers seek out effective, science-backed solutions to tackle skin conditions such as acne and eczema or to address hair issues like dandruff or hair loss, they are looking beyond topical products and turning to supplements.

According to consumer research from market intelligence firm Mintel, half of UK men identify as beauty supplement users or lapsed users of beauty supplements, while an additional 41% consider themselves potential users.,

CosmeticsDesign Americas

Q&A: What cosmetics brands need to know about CPSC oversight in 2025

Published as part of the firm’s “The Laws of Fashion: What’s Trending in 2025″ report, the whitepaper, “What Cosmetics Companies Need to Know about the CPSC” explores how oversight from the US Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) is becoming a critical area of concern for cosmetics and personal care product manufacturers and suppliers.

From packaging defects that pose potential safety risks to child-resistant packaging rules under the Poison Prevention Packaging Act, and the impact of influencer marketing on product classification, the paper outlined key compliance risks that industry stakeholders currently face.

Edgewell to stay aggressive on brand support amid North American sales pressure

According to the company, sales growth in international markets was offset by declines in North America. Specifically, international sales rose 2.9%, while organic sales in North America fell 3.9% due to lower volumes in Wet Shave, Feminine Care, and Sun Care.

Despite the disparity, gross margin improved by 100 basis points to 44.1%, with Edgewell attributing the increase to productivity gains. “Our focus on business fundamentals has led to top-line growth in our International business and accelerated gross margin expansion through excellent execution of our productivity program,” said the company in its earnings release.

Behind the label: What “Made in USA” really means for beauty brands

Beauty supply chains often rely on global sourcing of raw materials and ingredients, and manufacturers may consider asserting US origin claims as a differentiator.

However, while a “‘Made in USA’ label becomes more attractive to marketers, offering potential benefits but also requiring careful adherence to regulations,” Phyllis Marcus, Vice President of BBB National Programs’ National Advertising Division (NAD), told CosmeticsDesign.

TTYL: Three years later, has Lush’s digital gamble paid off?

Without traditional social channels, Lush instead redirected its focus towards its own platforms. “Our main strategy now is to focus on investing in and developing our own platforms as social tools, as well as communication and commerce platforms,” said Constantine.

The numbers reflect growing consumer engagement: Lush now counts 1.75 million app users, with one million opting in for push notifications and six million subscribers to its global newsletter, he shared. “We engage with our dedicated Lush Community on Discord, which is a great space to receive immediate feedback and direction on what our community would like to see more of or less of.”

De minimis loophole closure tightens US border controls on counterfeits

Under the now-closed de minimis rule, shipments valued at $800 or less could enter the country without formal customs procedures. This system, Ehsun Forghany, Partner at ArentFox Schiff, told CosmeticsDesign, “has allowed foreign companies to circumvent any court orders barring products found to infringe US design patents and other intellectual property rights from entering into the United States.”

This has been especially problematic for the cosmetics and personal care industry, where product design and packaging are key differentiators and prime targets for infringement.