In recent years, there has been more attention on ocean pollution and the decline of marine biodiversity, which has led more beauty shoppers to consider the environmental impact of their cosmetics purchases on the marine ecosystem.
This has resulted in a growing demand for eco-designed sunscreen products that are safe for human health and the marine ecosystem.
INNOV&SEA, which is a spin-off of a Centre national de la recherche scientifique (CNRS) laboratory at the Université Côte d’Azur Nice, has created a marine ecotoxicity test for cosmetics products, in particular sun care, which is a category that appears to have had the most impact on the marine ecosystem.
Using this tool can give a precise assessment of the environmental impact of formulas throughout the R&D process, which the business says and “allows for upstream action by adjusting the composition or eliminating controversial ingredients, with the overall aim to reduce its ecological footprint on the marine ecosystem.”
Using cell cultures of Anemonia viridis
The test is based on in vitro technology derived from academic research using cell cultures of Anemonia viridis, an emblematic marine invertebrate related to corals and representative of coastal marine ecosystems.
This marine organism lives in symbiosis with microalgae and undergoes the same bleaching phenomenon as corals, and therefore reflects the health of the marine reef ecosystem.
An alternative to live animal tests
The in vitro test contributes to the preservation of marine biodiversity because it offers a powerful alternative to live animal tests such as the coral cutting tests offered by some laboratories. The company highlighted that in vitro technology avoids the destruction of living marine organisms, a growing concern among consumers and regulatory authorities.
“In addition to being an eco-responsible method, this in vitro test offers increased reliability and reproducibility compared to existing in vivo tests, as well as high precision by taking resilience into account, which is not the case with any other available test,” emphasises president and cofounder of INNOV&SEA, Dr Pauline Cotinat.
“In addition, the procedure is rapid and available year-round.”
“Our test allows formulators to assess the ecotoxic impact of cosmetic ingredients (such as UV filters), formulation blocks or finished products on the marine ecosystem very early in the development of the cosmetic product,” said Dr Cotinat.
“They can thus optimise their formulation by adding, reducing or removing certain ingredients. This vital information greatly facilitates the formulation development process, avoiding surprises at the end of development.”
The ecotoxicity data that’s gathered via the testing can also be used by brands to communicate about their eco-design approach in line with evolving European regulations.
“Faced with consumer enthusiasm for more eco-responsible products and the authorities’ mobilisation against greenwashing, it is crucial for brands to ensure that environmental claims are justified by solid scientific data”, adds Dr Cotinat.
Nicolas Delerce, who is head of the R&D at SO.F.I.A. Cosmétique, a major subcontractor company based in the South of France, said that the company participated in the pilot of the test into the cosmetics market.
“We were able to confirm the interest and performance of this test and we now offer it to our customers who wish to position themselves on the eco-responsible product market,” explained Delerce.
Through partnerships with brands, manufacturers and producers of cosmetic ingredients, INNOV&SEA is now aiming transform the sustainability of sunscreen products.
