For decades, the primary focus of anti-ageing skin care products has been to minimise the effects of ageing, such as reducing wrinkles, fading hyperpigmentation and improving skin texture.
But in recent years, there has been a change of narrative brought about by a more holistic approach to beauty, linking it to health and wellness, along with a growing consumer demand for a more scientific approach and proof of product efficacy.
‘Longevity’ has officially stolen the spotlight from ‘anti-aging’, and as more beauty and personal care brands innovate in this space, we have explored what’s new in terms of longevity ingredients.
Here are some of the new ingredients launches to know about in this space.
Customisable exosomes
French biotech firm Naolys has launched its new ExoCell range, a collection of customisable exosomes, which are the result of two years of its applied research programme with the University of Bordeaux.
One of these, Aethelis Granata, uses the “biological power of pure exosomes extracted from pomegranate plant cells,” according to the company and “influences a key post-translational modification process that is linked to epigenetic regulation.”
Through this pathway, Naolys said it has been “proven to trigger a cascade of cellular responses” and that “it supports chromatin organisation, enhances DNA repair mechanisms, stimulates mitochondrial energy production, and reinforces intercellular communication, ultimately contributing to a visibly healthier, more resilient skin.”
AI-designed peptide that actives autophagy
A peptide designed using artificial intelligence to enhance cellular longevity. Surely it doesn’t get anymore cutting edge than that?
LipoTrue’s Cellaigie is an AI-designed peptide that works by activating autophagy, the skin’s natural recycling and renewal process.
The Spanish cosmetics ingredients company said it is “inspired by cutting-edge biohacking trends like fasting and high-intensity interval training (HIIT), which optimise energy use and cellular efficiency,” and that it harnesses the same mechanism to enhance skin longevity.
“By clearing damaged components within cells, it promotes deep rejuvenation, resulting in smoother, more radiant, and visibly healthier skin,” LipoTrue said.
Sustainable Traditional Chinese Medicine-based active
BASF’s Oximony is an extract of sustainably sourced and FairWild certified Lysimachia christinae (also known as Jin Qian Cao,) which is an ancient botanical used in Traditional Chinese Medicine.
The ingredient can support the skin’s own healthy levels of taurine, an amino acid naturally found in the human body, which helps to restore radiance, resilience, and firmness to skin.
BASF said the new ingredient was tested in clinical studies with Chinese volunteers showing common signs of ageing.
It was applied at 0.25% concentration over two months and after two weeks of application, there was a 28% improvement in skin fatigue appearance, and a noticeable difference compared to the placebo (36%), with continued positive results observed at one and two months.
Skin firmness increased by 17% after one month, while radiance improved by 18% from the baseline after two months.
Stem cell culture from goji seeds
Based on a stem cell culture from a goji seedling, Mibelle Biochemistry’s award-winning PhytoCellTec Exosomes delivers plant stem cell-derived exosomes from outside into the skin and also increases the exosome production by mesenchymal stem cells inside the skin.
“With its dual function based on exosomes, PhytoCellTec Exosomes acts on both the epidermis and dermis,” explained the Swiss ingredients company.
Natural active for under-eye skin prejuvenation
Angel-Eye EFX is a natural active ingredient from Vantage Personal Care developed around the ‘prejuvenation’ concept of preventing skin ageing.
The active is based around millenary herbal knowledge from Asia and offers anti-wrinkle and hydration benefits to the eye area.
Biomimetic peptide from green chemistry
Corneopeptyl is a patented biomimetic peptide obtained by green chemistry-based synthesis.
According to the company behind the innovation, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant it works by mimicking the LCE6A protein activity and “strengthens the corneocyte envelope, ensuring optimal skin barrier function and consequently preventing the skin from aging prematurely with reduction of the appearance of wrinkles and improvement of skin smoothness, tonicity, and hydration.”
“Intermittent fasting for skin”
Clarivine uses a biotechnology active from Vitis vinifera stem cells is designed to enhance skin cellular longevity and create the coveted ‘glass skin’ look.
“Its mechanism of action mirrors the benefits of intermittent fasting at cellular level, improving longevity markers and activating the skin’s regeneration processes, improving texture, pigmentation, hydration, wrinkles and boosting the skin antioxidant potential, with clinical results at only 14 days,” said the company behind the innovation, Vytrus Biotech.
Supports natural regeneration of skin cells
“Trans-epidermal growth factor (T-EGF) opens up a new era of skin care,” according to the company behind the innovation, Selco Wirkstoffe Vertriebs.
This active agent, created through a biotech, is said to regenerate and rejuvenate skin.
“The T-EGF has a direct effect on the skin cells and supports their natural regeneration,” according to the company.
It continued: “It stimulates the production of collagen and elastic fibres which strengthen the skin and make it elastic. At the same time, it promotes cell proliferation, which renews the skin faster and gives it a fresher and more radiant appearance. This process reduces fine lines and wrinkles – and makes the skin look younger."
Reduces and eliminates porphyrins by autophagy
Givaudan Active Beauty said it has been working on Evernityl for four years.
The new ingredient is based around the concept of ‘Porphyr’ageing’ and Porphyrins, which global category manager for biotech actives Alice Balloffet Belveyre said are widespread biomolecules found in many organisms and produced in large quantities by skin microbiota, particularly on the face.
“They actively contribute to inflammation by promoting cytokine release and increasing oxidative stress, both of which can accelerate premature skin ageing,” she explained.
Balloffet Belveyre said that Evernityl “proactively prevents skin damage by targeting the underlying mechanisms of Porphyr’ageing through an effective mode of action.”
“By reducing the production of porphyrins, and promoting their elimination through autophagy, it inhibits porphyrin-induced melanogenesis and reduces porphyrin-induced matrix degradation,” she continued.
By tackling the roots of Porphyr’ageing (reduction of porphyrins production and elimination by autophagy), Evernityl effectively reduces their harmful effects, preventing skin damage.
Eco-designed, ellagitannin-rich ingredient
Solabia’s Pro-Longevia scooped the gold award for best ingredients innovation in the actives category at this year’s In-Cosmetics Global awards.
The ellagitannin-rich ingredient is obtained by “an eco-designed subcritical water process from raspberry leaves, certified organic from France,” according to the company.
It is said to protect the skin biological integrity to improve visible signs of ageing, “targeting all the levels of hallmarks of ageing.”