This relatively new approach to skin care formulating focuses on the connection between the skin and the nervous system, often referred to as the “skin-brain axis”.
At this year’s In-Cosmetics Global show in Amsterdam, we tracked down plenty of exciting new launches in this space...
Sleep-enhancing active
Croda Beauty Actives has been studying skin-brain communication and has introduced Zenakine, a biotechnology-based active that it says “enhances skin’s resilience to physical and emotional stress, improves sleep quality, and reduces signs of skin fatigue and premature ageing.”
The company claims that Zenakine stimulates the production of “feel-good” messengers in the skin, alleviating cortisol stress damage, while modulating skin circadian genes to promote optimal skin physiology.
Benefits for the user include a more rested appearance with fewer lines, smoother skin, enhanced emotional balance with increased happiness, improved sleep quality, and faster fatigue recovery upon waking.
Natural emulsifier with sensory benefits
Pickmulse is a natural emulsifier that creates Pickering emulsions with a soft, powdery finish that also deliver mood-enhancing benefits that have been validated through an fMRI clinical study, which “demonstrated activation of brain regions linked to reward and positive emotions,” according to the company behind the innovation, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant.
The ingredient won Gold in the In-Cosmetics Global Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award (for the functional ingredients category). It was also awarded the Gold prize in the Green Ingredient Award category too.
Neuro-immunity support
Blue Alga is an oil-soluble, eco-designed extract that “enhances the natural skin’s positive biological response to sun exposure.”
It was “bio-inspired by the fascinating ability of the Cystoseira tamariscifolia macroalga to optimise the vital capture of sunlight during high tide through an adaptive colour shift,” according to the company behind the innovation, Odycea.
Odycea also said the ingredient “supports neuro-immunity by stimulating the skin’s vitamin D-induced defence pathway and wellbeing neuromediator release for improved skin health, resilience and radiance.”
Combats stress-induced ageing
AC WonderShroom is a skin care innovation inspired by the ways mycelial networks sustain life.
According to the company behind the innovation, Active Concepts, the formula is “grounded in Psychoneuroimmunology (PNI) and neuroscience” and blends adaptogens and nootropics to “combat stress-induced ageing, boost skin resilience, and enhance emotional well-being.”
Restores skin’s natural circadian rhythm
Zen is a microalgae blend that protects skin from inner stress signals and restores its natural circadian rhythm.
According to the company behind the new cosmetics ingredient, ALGAKTIV, chronic stress, sleep deprivation and fatigue alter both the HPA and SAM axis, which causes the appearance of a tired and stressed skin.
It says the ingredient “inhibits these neurotransmitters” to “create a relaxed skin appearance.”
Reduces stress
Selco Wirkstoffe Vertriebs’ Adenosine is an organic compound that occurs widely in nature. The molecule consists of an adenine attached to a ribose and is one of the four nucleoside building blocks of the DNA and RNA
The company said the ingredient can reduce stress and also has a host of skin care benefits including reducing inflammation, wrinkles and fine lines and improving skin texture, as well as hair care benefits, such as increasing hair growth and thickness and improving nightly repair processes.
Creates the feeling of being in love
Luca Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant GlowCytocin is a vegan, 99.8%-natural origin blend of glycerin, water and Hyacinthus orientalis (hyacinth) extract derived from the bulbs of white hyacinth, which the firm said is able to activate the oxytocin receptors in the skin to “biomimic many of the beneficial effects of oxytocin” – AKA the love molecule.
Both in vitro and organ-on-a-chip studies have shown that GlowCytocin “increases the proliferation of fibroblasts and sensory neurons, promoting skin rejuvenation and heightening skin receptivity to pleasant tactile sensations.”
The studies show that it also decreases nociceptive nerve sensitivity for a comforting effect.
While enhancing receptiveness to pleasant sensations, GlowCytocin also significantly decreased capsaicin-induced skin discomfort.
Based on these findings, the company pointed out that the ingredient can also have use in the growing sexual wellness sector, which continues to overlap into the personal care industry.
