With more people suffering from hypersensitive skin and conditions like rosacea, atopic dermatitis and adult acne, often due to stress, unhealthy diets and high pollution levels, many companies have innovated in this space.
We take a look at some of the innovations spotted in this space at the In-Cosmetics Global 2025 show in Amsterdam.
Boosts skin’s abilities for scar healing & skin repair
Award-winning innovation Melicica “boosts and optimises the skin’s natural repair process for all ages, scar types, and skin phototypes,” according to the company behind the ingredient, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant
The blend of glycerin, water and honey extract is rich in leptosperin, which are bioactive compounds found in specific varieties of Manuka flowers.
The firm said the honey-based ingredient has potential applications in skin repair, scar and acne-prone skin care, tone evening and brightening, texture improvement, baby care, sensitive skin solutions, post-procedure recovery and stretch mark care for any skin tone or type.
Clinical studies have shown it can actively modulate the expression of genes with key roles in the skin repair process, regulating inflammation, oxidative stress, collagen production and keratinocyte migration.
Uses the magic of mushrooms
Mushrooms are having their moment in the spotlight and a botanical extract of Reishi, (Ganoderma lucidum,) an adaptogen mushroom traditionally used in Asia for its soothing properties thanks to its richness in triterpenes, is the star of Seppic’s new innovation Ganocalm.
The active has proven benefits (in vitro and in vivo) on “relieving unpleasant sensations, soothing and hydration.”
Soothes pyroptosis & rosacea
Mibelle Biochemistry’s AmelioSense works on pyroptosis, which the company calls “a programmed, highly inflammatory cell death” while at the same time reducing general skin inflammation processes that lead to redness and irritated skin.
Mibelle Biochemistry said that recent studies have identified pyroptosis as a key factor exacerbating rosacea. “This process involves the activation of the inflammasome, leading to chronic inflammation and worsening symptoms,” said the Swiss ingredients company.
AmelioSense inhibits active caspase-1, the main enzyme driving pyroptosis, and reduces the expression of inflammatory markers.
Sustainable solution for skin inflammation
For skin-soothing ingredient SymRelief Green, Symrise has combined a sustainable, biotech high-purity bisabolol and ginger root extract to soothe highly sensitive skin.
The skin care ingredient 100% derived from natural ingredients and the company said that it “provides immediate and long-lasting relief from visible irritations, decreasing the appearance of redness and increasing skin comfort.”
‘Agro-psychological’ solution’ for adult acne
In response to the growing issue of adult acne, Provital has launched a new biotech-produced active which it dubs an ‘agro-psychological’ solution’ that’s designed to target adult acne.
Pureblome takes a ‘pro-ageing’ angle, as while someone may suffer with acne-prone skin, they may still have the same wish to preserve the longevity of their skin.
While Pureblome can help with acne, it has multiple benefits and is designed to work with women’s skin cycles, to balance and tackle ‘inflammaging’ and to improve skin’s overall texture.
Provital developed the ingredient using its biotechnological platform: Triplobiome Technology – a new way to produce ecosystem ingredients that offer an ‘ecopsychological’ solution, for “physiological wellbeing and renewal,” according to Provital.
The technology uses plant endophytes as a sustainable source to produce post-biotic active ingredients.
To create Pureblome, Provital said it “foresaw the active metabolites that make the symbiotic exchange between plant and bacteria kingdoms through several metabolomic analysis.”
The formula is based around the hyssop (Hissopus officinalis): an aromatic plant known for its bio-remediating properties that has long had medicinal uses, which Provital sources from a local organic supplier Parc de les Olors, which cultivates the plant using ago-ecological principles.
Using its Triplobiome Technology, Provital isolated endophytic bacteria, Bacillus velezensis, from the inside the leaves of the plant.
The results offer fibroblast revitalisation and sebocyte rebalancing for dermal regeneration, refined skin purity, ‘anti-inflammaging’ effects, and helps skin look more even.
Bakuchiol for acne-prone skin
Bakuchiol offers a plant-based alternative to retinol that’s more suited to more sensitive skin types.
To meet this demand, Sharon Personal Care by Eternis has launched Pantrofina® Bakuclear RSPO MB – A water-soluble Bakuchiol solution, specifically developed for acne-prone skin.
This ingredient combines bakuchiol with formulation versatility in water-based systems, making it ideal for formulations for oily and combination skin.