Ingredients innovation for the ‘skinification’ of hair care

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Could the 'skinification' of hair further combine with the wellness movement this year? (Image: Getty)

Actives, technologies and concepts used in skin care are now shaking up the hair industry. At the recent In-Cosmetics Global show, we explored some new ingredients in this space.

Maqui fruit for hair thickening

Patagonian maqui fruit is the star ingredient of Evonik’s CapilMax which offers “instant hair thickening through a unique blend of amino acids and powerful extracts,” according to the company.

Plant-based ingredient for hair styling products

BASF’s Verdessence Maize is a plant-based styling ingredient and readily biodegradable alternative to PVP and VP/VA polymers

Its 100% derived from renewable feedstocks and designed for various applications, especially crystal-clear pump sprays and mousses that have a cloud-like foam texture.

Eco-friendly liquid shea emollient

AAK Personal Care won an In-Cosmetics Global award for its Lipex SheaLiquid TR innovation.

The naturally derived, eco-friendly liquid shea emollient for hair formulations is rich in omega-9 and bioactive un-saponifiables.

New hair benefits for skin care actives

French dermo-cosmetics company Laboratoires Expanscience has revealed newly discovered hair care properties for some of its key skin care ingredients.

Ormesia is an upcycled maracuja (yellow passion fruit) seed extract that acts as a shield against pollution. Tested ex-vivo on hair strands stressed by Arizona Dust and UV exposure, the active was found to ensure better colour retention on dyed hair and strengthen the hair fibre, reducing breakage.

Meanwhile SOLINE Bio, an organic sunflower oil concentrate rich in un-saponifiables, has undergone ex-vivo tests on hair strands that confirm it protects hair from the effects of the sun and salt water, aids detangling and reduces breakage.

Finally Pixalia, extract of Cleome gynandra leaves and rich in polyphenols, is an active ingredient recognised for its skin microbiota rebalancing effectiveness, but it has also been found to promote a healthy scalp microbiota by specifically targeting Malassezia restricta, one of the main yeasts responsible for the formation of dandruff.

Fermented biotech to repair split ends

Hidrahair Seal SE is a fermented biotechnological ingredient that gives instant and long-lasting repair for split ends. It has bio-adhesive properties that smooth the surface of the hair fibre, reduces breakage from mechanical stress and controls volume and frizz.

Chemyunion, the company behind the innovation, says its new hair care innovation can repair 97% of hair split ends instantly after the first treatment and maintain 83% repaired after 48 hours.

Focus on hair longevity

DSM-Firmenich’s Eterwell Hair took a focus onto ‘hair longevity,’ which is a term that has so far been used in the skin care and nutraingredients space.

The company said the hair care innovation is “powered by senolytic science with ethically sourced ingredients.”

Bio-fermented polymer

Dow Personal Care launched a dual-action bio-fermented polymer for hair care, Dexcare CD-2, a low viscosity dual cationic dextran used as a conditioning agent and sustainable deposition aid for both silicones and natural oils.

The company also launched Acudyne 2000 Polymer: a hair styling polymer that allows product formulators to achieve high levels of hold, strong humidity resistance and no flaking.

Multifunctional, high-molecular-weight liquid polymeric emollient

P2 has designed Citropol® DE-4 to improve the feel of alkanes efficiently and “elevate the sensory experience.” The ingredient offers excellent conditioning for hair and is ideal for textured and curly hair types.