Longevity, biomimetics, sensory & upcycled: key cosmetics ingredient trends to watch

By Kirsty Doolan

- Last updated on GMT

Key cosmetics ingredient trends to watch

Related tags Cosmetics ingredient launch Innovation

We caught up with some of the world’s top cosmetics and personal care ingredients suppliers at this year’s InCosmetics Global show and found a focus on innovation in longevity, sensory, biomimetics and upcycled ingredients…

Focus on longevity & senolytics science

Clariant is debuting a natural skincare active that’s found in prince ginseng, CycloRetin, which it said: “activates the benefits offered by retinol while being naturally gentle.”

According to Clariant, the ingredient’s heterophyllin B molecule is a “groundbreaking cyclic peptide that enhances skin matrix production, improving collagen and reducing signs of ageing.”

The company also said it has efficacy comparable to retinol and bakuchiol.

Clariant’s global technical marketing manager for actives and natural origins, Julie Droux, explained: "While exploring the benefits of cyclic peptides in our lab we discovered prince ginseng’s outstanding potential to restart the skin matrix production cycle.”

Also on the theme of longevity beauty, Naolys will showcase its Active Plant Cells ingredient which utilises Intelligent Cellular Stimulation to rejuvenate the skin  and reduce wrinkles.

According to Naolys, the sustainable skincare active “targets oxidised proteins and senescent cells” and is clinically proven to diminish wrinkles and enhance skin quality.

Meanwhile bio-venture company, Cellicon, is set to display its DST-SP peptide, an active for reverse-aging without having any effect on young cells, and Ascot International Ltd. will highlight its Bakuchiol 99% - a naturally occurring, plant-derived antioxidant originating in India shown to visibly reduce fine lines, wrinkles, and acne scars.

Another company that has been innovating in longevity ingredients is Dsm-Firmenich. The company will be showcasing Eterwell Youth: holistic solution for healthy ageing skin that acts at the cellular level.

According to the company senescent cells are “aged cells which can no longer produce collagen and elastin. But instead of being naturally removed, they remain in the skin, impacting their immediate environment, inducing a vicious circle of inflammation and premature ageing.”

The new ingredient is said to selectively targets these destructive cells to properly remove them, re-boosting the natural skin processes and promoting healthy-looking skin. 

It’s also 100% of natural origin, produced from a rare plant, alpine willowherb, which it said helps rejuvenate the healthy skin appearance, revert the skin damage induced by senescent cells (patent application filed) and is Cosmos, Natrue organic and Fair for Life fair trade-certified.

Patented peptide biomimetic

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics is set to launch Corneopeptyl, a new patented peptide biomimetic to the newly discovered LCE6A protein, which is obtained by green chemistry-based synthesis.

The company said it enhances the epidermal barrier “for improved skin barrier function” that contributes to “tackling the premature visible signs of ageing”.

It also said it has an AI-proven rejuvenating effect of up to four years younger and is supported by nine clinical studies, tested on an inclusive panel with sensitive skin.

Meanwhile, LipoTrue also shared that its launching two new actives: an innovative peptide obtained with artificial intelligence and a biomimetic fibrillin fragment produced in wild plants as “biofactories through vertical farming with elasticity and firming boosting properties.”

According to LipoTrue, it has “opened a door to a new dimension suitable for acne-prone skins.”

“Through artificial intelligence, LipoTrue has designed an optimised peptide that interacts with three different key targets involved in acne to reduce inflammation, sebum and pore size,” it said.

Fun-filled sensory innovations

Seppic is launching many new ingredients at the show and one of these puts a focus on fun-filled sensory innovation.  

Its new “Beautiful Temptations” collection draws inspiration from seven ‘temptations’ and transforms them into innovative and sensorial skin care, hair care, nutricosmetic, and makeup formulations.

As a sneak peek of the collection it will be unveiling, Seppic shared news of its Appealing Transformative Masks, which are inspired by ‘Envy.’

It uses formats/textures that haven't been used before and enable experimentation and Blend It Yourself concepts for consumers.

The Appealing Transformative Masks include a blue aqueous gel that can be used as a mask alone or can be mixed with a pink concentrated oil thus revealing an unexpected purplish cream as a second mask.

Upcycled naturals with a local approach

Upcycled ingredients have been steadily growing a dedicated  following in the past few years and one company that has been innovating in this space is Herbarom.

The French company will be presenting three new upcycled “100% committed ingredients, from French and local sources” at this year’s show.

The company, which has expertise in food supplements, has taken an ‘eco-design approach’ from the establishment of a sustainable supply chain right through to the ingredient ready to be formulated into finished products. The new ingredients are sourced from local growing areas in the heart of the Rhône Valley.

Its new Hydroglycerine chestnut extract is anti-acne, anti-ageing and has antioxidant properties, according to the company. It uses chestnuts that are first used to make marrons glacés and originate from near Herbarom’s extraction site in the Drôme, to reduce the use of new natural resources.

The company will also be launching a hair mask from apricot tree ingredients, which includes floral water, virgin apricot oil and apricot tree hydroglycerinated extract. Along with a hand cream from apple tree ingredients, which are rich in polyphenols and vitamin C. The ingredient features floral water, apple peel distilled water and apple seed oil, which it said is moisturising, antioxidant and can accelerate tissue regeneration.

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