4 new neuro-cosmetic ingredient innovations

Mood-brightening florals​

Symrise said its new Flowerconcentrole collection uses the olfactive benefits of flower extracts to “offer neurocosmetic and mindful solutions for cosmetic products.”

Using neuroscience technologies, the company’s scientists have proven the influence of scents on our emotions and link the olfactive properties of flowers to mood enhancement benefits.

The collection uses sustainably sourced rose, lavender, rose geranium and ylang ylang extracts that have been tested on nine different positive emotions and are proven to stimulate emotions like: relaxation, protection, joy, well-being and freshness.

Serotonin-boosted skin care​

Hallstar Beauty will be launching a natural active beauty ingredient to counteract effects of psychological stress. BLISS Oléoactif was developed with the patented, environmentally respectful oléo-éco-extraction process – from 100% recycled waste.

Drawing inspiration from light therapy and antidepressants, the company has identified a key enzyme to act on Monoamine Oxidase A (MAO-A).

By inhibiting MAO-A, Hallstar said that BLISS Oléoactif aims to boost serotonin production, which in turn can “constrain stress’s negative impact on skin,” it said.

The ingredient combines the benefits of a co-product of linden sapwood with sunflower oil – both from responsible, organic, and local French sourcing.

Solar-powered glow​

Givaudan Active Beauty is launching Neuroglow and claims that the active: “captures the molecular power of the sun.”

The mood-boosting ingredient is supposed to boost glow and good mood, replicating the positive effects of the sun. It was crafted by Green Fractionation from Persicaria tinctoria​ and is sourced from Provence in the south of France.

According to Givaudan: the new active “mimics the beneficial properties of sunlight, stimulating production of melanin and promotes the skin’s release of wellbeing molecules such as beta-endorphin, vitamin D, and oxytocin.”

It said that by boosting melanin production, Neuroglow prepares the skin for sun exposure, allowing for a faster, healthier, more natural and better protected tan. It is also said to improve general wellbeing and energy levels at the same time as preventing potential inflammatory damage caused by the sun.

According to Givaudan, results from the first clinical trial demonstrated a phototype shift in 76% of participants in just seven days, moving from phototype II to phototype III, while 40% of these "even shifted to a darker phototype IV, compared to 0% in the placebo group."

In a second clinical trial involving volunteers experiencing seasonal mood changes due to lack of sunlight, the ingredient reduced tiredness, increased feelings of affection, and improved ‘winter blues’ – with over 80% of volunteers reporting a positive score.

Emotional and cognitive wellbeing​

IFF’s LMR Naturals’ Active Essences Collection features renewable absolutes and supercritical CO2 extracts processed with an upcycled CO2.

The company will present three ingredients at InCosmetics: Narcisse Absolute Conscious LMR, Pepper Pink CO2 Extract LMR, and Pepper Timur CO2 Extract LMR, which it said have been scientifically tested in vitro to demonstrate benefits to skin, hair and scalp, as well as emotional and cognitive wellbeing – tested by IFF’s BrainEmotions™ neuroscience program.