What’s new in cosmetics ingredients?

By Kirsty Doolan

- Last updated on GMT

Image: Getty
Image: Getty

Related tags Ingredients Cosmetics Formulation Cosmetic science Personal care Skin Sustainability

A round-up of the latest innovative ingredients for beauty and personal care product formulations.

Active for blemish-prone skin

What’s it called?​ Epispot by BASF Personal Care

What does it do?​  The active ingredient features an extract of Epilobium angustifolium​, a plant responsibly harvested in France. It tackles the root causes of an imbalance affecting the skin's lipids, microbiota and natural defence system and can be used in a wide range of products, from facial serums to cleansers and makeup formulations.

According to BASF, it reduces skin shine, improves the appearance of facial pores and promotes a healthy complexion. It also addresses the #NoFilter skincare trend for authentic beauty and had an effect on sebum production when tested on an advanced ex-vivo 3D model visualising function of the skin's sebaceous glands.

Plant-based emulsifier & stabiliser from upcycled fibres

What’s it called?​ BergaMuls ET2 by Berg+Schmidt,

What does it do?​ The new plant-based emulsifier is extremely gentle on the skin barrier, as it doesn’t exhibit surface activity, which makes it suitable for emulsifier-free concepts.

It’s sourced from oat, wood and guar gum and comprises water-soluble and -insoluble components, which support emulsion stability and viscosity. Upcycled dietary fibres from gum or cellulose are processed to a powder, creating different functionalities within the formulation. It’s cold-processible, not esterified, and less likely to create soaping effects.

Typically used in a concentration between 1-3%, the viscosity of an o/w emulsion increases linearly with the size of the oil phase, which allows for the formulation of a range of products from light cream-gels to lotions and compact creams.  

As well as being a zero-waste and circular product, it’s also a water-free and vegan raw material.

Upcycled Microalgae collagen alternative

What’s it called?​ ALGAKTIV Collage

What does it do?​ The 2-in-1 firming complex is made from Vegan Collagen Peptides and Spermidine derived from microalgae and nourishes and restructures the skin matrix, as well as being a sustainable ingredient.

It’s made with resilient extremophile Hematococcus pluvialis,​ which thrives in the harshest environments of Iceland. It can change its own biochemistry when subjected to stress and produces Astaxanthin, a red nutraceutical antioxidant.

The COSMOS-certified ingredient uses vegan, upcycled peptides, standardised in glycine, proline, and hydroxyproline, which serve as the ‘building blocks’ for native Collagen production. It also features Spermidine, a natural booster of collagen synthesis in the skin, further enhancing its rejuvenating effects.

Hair and skin conditioning with reduced rinse time

What’s it called? ​AURIST AGC by IFF

What does it do?​  A water-soluble, readily biodegradable cationic biopolymer that conditions hair while reducing rinse time and also improves improves skin roughness feel and rinsability in skin cleansing and body wash applications.

Sensorial emollient

What’s it called?​ Cargill Beauty BotaniButter

What does it do?​ Derived from botanical sources of palm, mustard and rapeseed, BotaniButter (INCI: Behenyl/Oleyl Behenate/Oleate Esters) adds a rich texture and smooth application to formulations from creams to light lotions. The melting point is just above skin temperature so it immediately sinks into skin after application, resulting in a soft feel without a waxiness.

It’s ideal for lip balms and lipsticks, as it provides pay-out without losing the stick strength when mixed with wax materials.

Skin beauty and joint health

What’s it called? ​BioCell Collagen by BioCell Technology

What does it do? ​A naturally occurring matrix of predominantly hydrolysed type II collagen peptides, chondroitin sulfate and hyaluronic acid for skin beauty and joint health. It’s not a blend of individual ingredients. Various studies, including seven human clinical trials, have supported its safety, efficacy, and bioavailability.

Eco-friendly solubiliser with preservative booster properties

What’s it called?​ SEPICLEAR G7 by Seppic

What does it do?​ It’s not a new launch, but new studies have revealed that this ingredient has a hydrotrope property, which increases the preservative solubility in formulations and decreases water activity, thereby boosting the performance of the preservatives.

Ideal for formulations that want a shorter INCI list, as formulators will be able to use less preservatives while obtaining the same protection.

The 100% naturality, readily biodegradable, non-ethoxylated and preservative-free low viscous liquid is easy to handle and cold processable for use as an a solubiliser for fragrances and essential oils with non-foaming properties. It also has makeup removal ability and allows formulators to create thinner cream-gels without having an impact on viscosity.

Active derived from Sphingomonas panaciterrae bacteria

What’s it called?​ REVILIENCE by SILAB

What does it do?​ It restores the skin's ‘vitality signature’ by regulating biological pathways linked to the metabolism and protection of cutaneous cells, offering skin boosted hydration and radiance after seven days of use.

Sphingomonas panaciterrae,​ a source of vitality Ginseng is known to cause numerous changes and deficiencies in its environment, impacting the availability of nutrients, especially nitrogen. To survive in this hostile environment the batercia presents in the ginseng rhizosphere, deploys protective mechanisms via the production of sphingane-type Exopolysaccharides (EPS). It exhibits for itself and its host bio-protective and bio-stimulant properties.

SILAB has developed a biotechnological process of controlled nitrogen deficiency applied to Sphingomonas panaciterrae​, which doubled its EPS production compared with a non-deficient process. Coupled with a specific enzymatic hydrolysis, this bio-inspired approach resulted in an active of oligosphinganes that are capable of improving the metabolism of skin that lacks vitality.


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