“We are 100 times more demanding than the cosmetic regulations requirement.” Cellcosmet CSO on microbiome claims

By Kirsty Doolan

- Last updated on GMT

“We are 100 times more demanding than the cosmetic regulations requirement.” Cellcosmet CSO on microbiome claims

Related tags microbiome Skin Skin care Skin health postbiotics Beauty

We spoke to Cellcosmet’s Chief Scientific Officer Jeremie Soeur about the brand’s skin microbiome focus, the science behind the products and future plans for unique product personalisation.

Swiss beauty brand Cellcosmet has been creating products with strong scientific credentials for the past 40 years – long before it became a trend.

When formulating, it also puts emphasis on creating a favourable environment for a diverse and healthy microbiome.

A focus on the Cutibacterium strain

According to Jeremie Soeur, Cellcosmet’s Chief Scientific Officer, the skin care brand's approach and technologies come from fundamental research.

“Our formulas preserve the diversity of the microbiome, resulting in better barrier function and strengthening the skin's defence capacity,” ​he explained. “Our activity to preserve and maintain the diversity of a heathy skin microbiome has been measured and objectivised under clinical tests.”

Based on studies that have demonstrated that postbiotics have a beneficial impact on skin microbiome, the brand has incorporated a ‘Postbiotics Complex’ into its formulas. This is made from three marine-origin ferments, which it said contributes to complexion radiance, skin firmness, protection against blue light and lessening the appearance of the signs of ageing.

According to Soeur, in vitro tests have proven that these postbiotics strengthen the skin cell junction, improving skin barrier function.

Cellcosmet’s formulations pay specific attention to the Cutibacterium strain – a major skin bacteria species that has been shown to decrease with age and is a marker of the physiological age of skin.

“Our clinical tests proved that our formulas preserve a balanced microbiota diversity and maintain it at the right percentage level of Cutibacterium,”​ explained Soeur.  

Over 100 formula creation tests

Before a topical product with a microbiome claim is put on the market, the brand must ensure it has less than 1,000 Colony Forming unit per gram (CFU/g) of product. However, Soeur said that Cellcosmet’s threshold is 10 CFU/g “which means we are 100 times more demanding than the cosmetic regulations requirement – the standard or threshold equivalent of pharmaceutical grade product,”​ he shared.

Cellcosmet’s product signature is its high percentage of active ingredient.  “The Postbiotics Complex reaches 7% for only one type of active ingredient,” ​explained Soeur. “Each postbiotic ingredient has a specific activity, that’s why the ratio of the three postbiotics changes depending on the type of product.”

He continued: “For example, the percentage of postbiotic with anti-puffiness properties can reach 4% in the Eye Contour Cream, while the one which has a greater activity on firmness will be 3% in a face formula.”

Before a formula is launched, Soeur said there are over 100 formula creation tests carried out, which means Cellcosmet’s R&D team spends, on average, more 18 months on the development phase.

“We regularly perform efficacy tests on a small group/panel test before evaluating the final formula with a clinical test performed by an independent laboratory, on a larger group to represent skin type diversity and under dermatological control,” ​he said.  

“Regarding the microbiome efficacy claim, only technologies used in fundamental research are implemented in our clinical tests.” 

Plans to create 100%-personalised formulations

The luxury brand has just launched a new product CellLift Lotion into the UK and European markets, which it said had been “proven to revitalise the activity of skin cells”.

So, what will Soeur be working on next?

“We are in the process of assembling what we refer to as a ‘Scientific Advisory Board’,” ​he shared. “This council comprises experts in various scientific disciplines who guide us towards new avenues of research and development.” 

Going forward, he revealed that Cellcosmet will aim to capitalise on the unique individual skin microbiome signature and develop personalised and tailor-made products.

He also shared that over the next five years, one of the brand’s main focuses will be on skin health and personalisation.

“Cellcosmet will be offering formulas that will be even more tailored to individual’s lifestyles,” ​he shared. “Our ambition is to collect data from our customer-patients in-store and send it to our laboratory to create a 100%-personalised formula.”

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