In March this year, German molecular design technology company Cambrium launched NovaColl™, which it claimed was the first micro-molecular and 100% skin-identical, vegan collagen.
The ingredient is specially designed for inclusion in premium personal care formulations.
Due to its structure and small molecular size, it is able to create powerful collagen benefits across skin layers.
NovaColl™ shared that its claims have now been scientifically validated in third party in vitro and ex vivo studies, which demonstrated a broad range of activities to protect, maintain and enhance native collagen.
Results “corroborate the key claim”
The company said that ex vivo testing of the topical skincare ingredient was conducted by a third party using human skin explants.
“The ex vivo testing was carried out on skin explants under two conditions: exposure to collagenase (artificial ageing) and to UVA (oxidative stress),” explained Cambrium’s Head of R&D, Lucile Bonnin. “Markers measured were: MMP-1 levels (main enzyme initiating collagen degradation), pro-collagen 1 (precursor to collagen) and collagen 1. We also measured the collagen matrix density by birefringence.”
For the testing, NovaColl™ was applied with an active concentration of 0.1%, twice a day for three days after the collagenase and UVA treatments. The results were reached after three days of application.
“The results corroborate our key claim,” said Bonnin. “NovaColl™ is the only micro-molecular, skin-identical, vegan collagen ingredient which protects, maintains and enhances the native collagen of our skin.”
New launch at the end of this year
Bonnin shared that the R&D process only took just 18 months. The engineering team worked to design proteins with unprecedented material properties, while the R&D team worked on screening, selecting and producing the best active ingredient.
“Without this collaboration such a development could take more than five years from idea to launch,” she shared. “We are excited to be the first ones to develop and commercialise such an innovation in under two years.”
Now that Cambrium has verified its claims for NovaColl™, what’s next on the agenda for the Berlin-based company?
“There is a finished product launch that we will be making public this year,” shared Bonnin. “We also have plans for further efficacy testing of NovaColl™ – a clinical study at the end of year. Plus, we are already working on further exciting innovations, in personal care and beyond.”