Skin science: Top stories on cosmetic science, formulation and R&D in the APAC beauty space

1 – Mask-proof lip gloss? Maquillage launches new transfer-resistant product featuring Shiseido’s latest tech

Shiseido-owned make-up brand Maquillage has launched a new lip product featuring new technology​ that makes it transfer resistant despite its glossy finish.

Maquillage Dramatic Lip Tint debuted on October 21 with five shades that retail for JPY2,300 (U$21).

The newest product was developed in response to the increased use of protective face masks, which caused a devastating blow to lipstick sales in the past 18 months or so.

“Due to COVID-19, consumers' values and behaviours around the world are changing dramatically. Reflecting such changes there is increased awareness of health and skincare, while at the same time frequencies to use make-up like lipstick are decreasing as people go out less and wear masks,” ​remarked Masahiko Uotani, CEO of Shiseido, last year.

2 – Beauty and mental health: Reduced cosmetic habits during COVID-19 lead to increased irritability, stress

Researchers have found that not performing adequate cosmetic care of skin, hair, and could have significant negative psychological impacts​ amid the pandemic.

The researchers defined cosmetic care as activities that include the use of make-up, as well as any cosmetic procedures such as facials, hair styling, and manicures.

These activities, the team highlighted have historically had positive effects on women, including and not limited to enhancing feelings of confidence, assertiveness, and youthfulness.

Additionally, the COVID-19 pandemic has caused adverse effects on skin health. For instance, the increased use of protective masks and other personal protective equipment have triggering acne in some people.

3 – Efficient cleansing: LG H&H files patent for easy-to-remove make-up base made from biocellulose

LG Household & Healthcare has filed a patent for cosmetic composition with a biocellulose base​ that facilitates the quick removal of make-up without oil-based removers.

Most make-up products contain oil-based ingredients and colourants such as pigments, which are hydrophobic. This makes it necessary to use oil-based removers, such as cleansing oils, balms and creams to remove them.

However, such this cleansing process can potentially irritate the skin. Additionally, the company believes consumers are seeking a quicker and simpler method of cleansing.

To solve this problem, the company first turned to a temperature-sensitive polymer that forms a hydrophobic film on the skin but changes its structure and detaches from the skin when it hits a certain temperature.

4 – Zero-waste nanoparticle innovation offers green beauty promise: Review

Nanoparticles made using natural polymers and ingredients from waste materials offer the cosmetics industry great promise in developing active beauty products for skin health​ that align with green economy goals, say researchers.

Published in Latest Trends in Textile and Fashion Designing, researchers from universities in Italy, Saudi Arabia and China reviewed the beauty and wellness market in the context of green economy needs. This, they said, was increasingly important given today’s focus on planetary health and human wellbeing in the context of the ongoing COVID-19 and environmental crises.

The researchers said there was a clear need to “realise a new industrial renaissance” that reduced the use of natural material by using waste by-products and sustainable technologies to maintain human wellbeing, planetary biodiversity and the environment.

5 – L’Oréal files patent on natural sugar-based curly hair styling formula

International beauty major has developed a hair styling formulation for curly hair from a blend of sugar compounds​ and plant fibre, offering a natural and lightweight alternative to film-forming polymer and silicone products.

Writing in its international patent, L’Oréal said it had developed a leave-in hair styling composition from a blend of sugar alcohols, saccharide compounds and pectin that provided “excellent hairstyling benefits” for curly hair, without the need for synthetic film-forming polymers and/or silicones. The formulation, it said, offering durable styling, shaping benefits, curl definition, curl regularity, improved shine and frizz control.

The blend could be used in a variety of non-emulsion leave-in hair styling formats, including gels, creams, milks, mousses and clays, but also even sprays where it could be incorporated as part of a hair care kit with a shampoo, conditioner and hair mask. L’Oréal said this international patent claimed benefit of priority to US and French patents filed back in February 2020 and March 2020, respectively.