in-cosmetics Asia 2019
Red is the new blue: Croda says infrared protection will be the next trend in beauty
The UK-headquartered company claims that Infraveil IT-100 delivers instant skin protection from Infrared-A (IRA) rays.
Compared to Infrared-B and Infrared-C waves, IRA has a shorter wavelength compared. As such, it has been observed to penetrate deeper into the skin to the dermal layer.
This means it can potentially cause photoaging. As such, the company has observed claims for infrared protection becoming more prominent on the market.
“We are moving to more than just UVA, UVB and blue light protection and looking at the new wavelength in line, infrared. We do know that infrared causes ageing and we’re seeing a lot of anti-ageing actives that works on infrared damage,” said Raelene Yeo, marketing associate, Croda.
However, Yeo conceded that awareness of infrared-protection among consumers was not as high compared to UV or blue light protection.
“One of the challenges is that consumers don’t understand the concept at the moment, but we foresee more brands coming up with infrared protection claims sooner or later.”
Inorganic vs organic sun screens
Yeo told CosmeticsDesign-Asia that Infraveil IT-100 was meeting the current demand for inorganic sun screens.
“We are seeing the market move towards the inorganic side because we are hearing a lot of the negative impacts of organic sun screens, such as the damage to coral reefs for instance.”
In addition, some consumers are concerned over the safety of organic sun screens.
“Chemical sun screens breaks down in the skin and there’s very little studies on what exactly it breaks down into, that’s what’s worrying the consumer,” said Yeo.
She elaborated that organic sun screens were preferred in the past because it did not leave a white cast on the skin.
“Most people have the misconception that titanium dioxide gives a white cast that can show up with flash photography. With the current tech, we can solve all these problems,” said Yeo.
Infraveil IT-100, for instance, was reported to cause minimal whitening on the skin, despite its large particle size.
Infraveil IT-100 was featured in the Innovation Zone at this year’s in-cosmetics Asia. In addition, the company also bagged the Spotlight On Transforming Formulations Award for its Hydrating Green Caviar Jelly Orbs formulation.
“While consumers are used to traditional formats such as lotions, creams and serums, this novel moisturiser comes in a jelly orb format which provides an exciting and unique sensorial experience for consumers. Each jelly orb gives a burst of hydration when mixed with the emollient and when it breaks on to the skin,” said Yeo
The winning formula was developed by Croda technical services coordinator, Earl Lazo, who said it was inspired by molecular gastronomy.
“I have always been a fan of crossovers. This technology already exists in the food industry, so it was about taking it and adapting it into personal care.”
The formulation contains a number of actives, including Crodarom Green Caviar, a botanical extract with hydrating and smoothing properties.
However, Lazo highlighted that the formulation could include other actives as well.
“It’s really a very versatile formulation. You can incorporate other actives and can be further developed into something else with different colours and even different sizes. There are so many possibilities that can come out of this.”
He added that the company would continue to further develop this formula.
“We’ve received a lot of good feedback but also feedback on how we can improve it as well. We’ll work on how it spread or how it breaks on skin so it will suit the different tastes in the market.”