Gattefossé launches new natural emulsifier for pigmented options

By Lucy Whitehouse

- Last updated on GMT

Gattefossé launches new natural emulsifier for pigmented options
Using its established knowledge in lipid chemistry, Gattefossé is set to release its new water-in-oil (W/O) emulsifier of natural origin, designed principally for pigmented formulations.

The company will be presenting the new Emulium Illustro ingredient at the upcoming in-cosmetics Global​ trade event in Paris.

The ingredient launch aims to meet the rising consumer appetite for natural colour cosmetics and sunscreens, according to Gattefossé, and it uses a patented technology based on polyglycerol esters.

The company says the new ingredient demonstrates ‘superior performance and stability’ compared to other W/O emulsifiers on the market.

Concrete solution for natural emulsion issues

The ingredient comes in response to demand for emulsifiers that can offer high level performance while also responding to consumer appetite for natural ingredients.

“We have been working for six years to find a composition that provides a concrete solution to natural W/O emulsion issues,” confirms Maxime Nollet, research scientist specialized in lipid chemistry at Gattefossé.

“We have carefully selected three raw materials that are reacted together by esterification and interesterification.

“The association of a low freeglycerol grade of polyglycerol-6, 12-hydroxystearic acid and ricinoleic acid allow us to obtain a supple structure that stabilizes without need for a  co-emulsifier.

“The insaturated chain brings fluidity to the final emulsion and gives textures that present easy spreading capacity.”

Colour cosmetics focus

The company says that its development process was guided by colour formulation experts to put pigments at the heart of its research.

“The emulsions were constructed around pigments, taking into consideration different types of coating as well as uncoated materials,” explains Malorie Duvent, formulation scientist at Gattefossé.

Duvent explains that the company has tested its ingredient in formulations to demonstrate its performance in makeup, sun care and skin care. One product was a foundation makeup product.

“Our fully natural foundation was evaluated in a consumer test on a panel composed of habitual users of silicone foundations. The panelists were thrilled by both the performance of the natural foundation and the appearance of their skin after use,” she says.

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