Trend Watch: pre-sport probiotic skin care

By Deanna Utroske contact

- Last updated on GMT

© Getty Images
© Getty Images
At this week’s SCC Annual Meeting and Technology Showcase in New York City, Roelmi HPC launched its latest personal care and beauty ingredient. Aective is a biotech-derived molecule that provides microbial defense as well as skin moisturization and elasticity benefits—precisely the sort of personal care technology that will lead to active-prep, micobiome-friendly product innovations.

The Italian company has been in business since 1946 and has offices around the world; Roelmi HPC headquarters are in Lombardi, Italy; offices are in Beijing, China; in Saint Denis, France; and here in the US in Hoboken, New Jersey.

At the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Annual Meeting this week, Cosmetics Design spoke with Lamberto Anzalone, the sales account manager who opened the US office earlier this year.

Roelmi HPC makes both active and functional ingredients as well as formulation protection technologies. The company also has formulation development capabilities and does work with cosmetics, nutraceutical, and medical device makers, according to the company profile on LinkedIn.

The molecule

Anzalone tells Cosmetics Design that the newly launched Aective has been in development for years. It’s a “pure molecule,” ​he says, made using a patented bacterial strain and “cutting-edge bio fermentation technology.”

Roelmi HPC has run clinical tests, and according to Anzalone, in-vitro testing shows that the new ingredient functions as “an osmolyte, able to protect the environment equilibrium around cells under external stress,” ​both chemical and microbial.

In-vivo testing shows that Aective promotes microbiome homeostasis. It is “ideal for skin microbiota to survive, proliferate and protect the skin,” ​according to materials shared with Cosmetics Design

The environment

Many beauty makers and supply companies are making pledges and developing strategies to be carbon neutral or bring about what’s called a circular economy. Along these same lines, Roelmi HPC has an initiative it calls NIP, No Impact in Progress. It’s “a philosophy that focuses on daily respect, care, progress, and sustainability,” ​according to a deck shared with Cosmetics Design.

The program often has Roelmi HPC partnering with other companies (like a biopolymer company in the development of an alternative to microbeads and an olive oil producer to put the byproducts of food production to good use as a cosmetics and personal care ingredient).

The NIP initiative comprises three pillars of action:

  • “We inform customers of the importance to choose, when possible, eco-friendly ingredients that ensure a lower dependence on energy in production with a reduced impact on the environment.”
  • “We manufacture high-performance ingredients recognized [for] their technology and efficiency.”
  •  “The safety of the person is a key component of our philosophy. Our ingredients are subject to stringent controls to ensure consumer’s safety.”

The individual

Anzalone describes Aective as “protection for your finger-printed microbiota,” ​meaning that the ingredient effectively protects each person’s unique and varied microbiome.

So like other probiotic ingredients and skin care formulations it helps microbiota do their thing. But, Anzalone tells Cosmeticets Design, it also helps preserve each person’s unique and varied microbiome in salty and chlorinated water and in sweaty situations.

Stefania Zanzottera, marketing manager at Roelmi HPC, calls Aective “a balancer of skin microbiota,”​ going on to explain that  “independent from singular human microbiota composition, this innovation is able to be effective on whatever skin type, as its first target is the skin microenvironment and not the single probiotic species.”

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DeannaUtroske_Editor_CosmeticsDesign

Deanna Utroske, CosmeticsDesign.com Editor, covers beauty business news in the Americas region and publishes the weekly Indie Beauty Profile column, showcasing the inspiring work of entrepreneurs and innovative brands.

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