Kseniia Galenytska is Senior Beauty and Fashion Analyst at Euromonitor International.
Who are the leading brands, and what are the most exciting products in this space?
Some of the most exciting products in this field include the launch of the new range, ‘Capture Youth’, by Dior which claims to “fight against the appearance of the signs of ageing even before they appear”.
‘Capture Youth’ is comprised of an age delaying cream, formulated from 88% naturally derived ingredients and five complementary serums which are said to fade away the signs of ageing as they appear.
Boots is promoting to the maintenance of healthy looking skin as the is key to prevent ageing, with the launch of their new line ‘Your Good Skin’.
It claims to improve five key signs of healthy skin as identified by the ‘Your Good Skin’ community: skin texture, skin tone evenness, radiance, moisture levels & oiliness.
Another exciting brand, is Japanese beauty giant, ‘Pola Orbis’, which launched its ‘Wrinkle Shot Medical Serum’ under the Pola brand, following 15 years of research and development.
The product is the first wrinkle product to be registered as a quasi-drug (actively medicated) in the country.
The company claims to be the first to have discovered a specific root cause of wrinkles, and, developed an inhibitor to the offending enzyme, legally claiming its efficacy. ‘Wrinkle Shot’ is marketed to prevent wrinkles caused by facial expressions, UV and dryness.
What are the most exciting ingredients in this space?
The most exciting ingredients includes probiotics. Although the key research in the microbiome field has been performed by start-ups, big players are already taking note as they seek to garner revenue when the opportunity presents itself.
Mainstream brands are launching products that generally contain probiotic or probiotic-derived ingredients which are not alive nor viable to form colonies.
As a result, probiotic culture ingredients are on the rise.
In 2016, global demand for probiotic cultures in facial moisturisers accounted for 8,600 tonnes and it is expected to reach 10,400 tonnes by 2021.
Probiotics help support the skin's barrier and its overall health—minimizing the effects of daytime stressors. They are also widely used to treat redness from acne or rosacea.
With increasing awareness of the effects of the sun on skin, rising pollution levels, and the growing dependence on technological devices that emit blue and infrared light, full environmental protection claims are expected to be at the centre of the beauty industries radar in the coming years.
Botanical ingredients with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and shielding properties are expected to benefit from this trend with an expected volume CAGR of 7% during the forecast period. Whether this is a marketing strategy or the new anti-ageing flagship, remains to be seen.
Any top tips for brands, suppliers or manufacturers looking to maximise on these trends?
To maximise on this trend, companies would need to develop and market products that help prevent aging rather than treat its consequences.
Products targeting healthy ageing need clear communication of functionality, and their positioning remains claim-focused.
Brands would also need to educated younger consumers, encouraging early adoption and boosting awareness of the longer term health-benefits and solutions.