5 Top Actives of 2016

By Belinda Carli, Director, Institute of Personal Care Science

- Last updated on GMT

5 Top Actives of 2016
We’ve seen some fantastic materials launched this year with strong science and significant clinically proven results. There is no doubt ‘high science’ was on the agenda. Here are industry expert Belinda Carli's top picks of the launches in 2016.

The key growth areas was again peptide solutions, anti-pollution and neuro-cosmetics along with advanced processing technologies and epigenetic science.

Selecting just five materials to represent a year of what has been fantastic launches was an extremely difficult challenge. The materials that were finally selected showed fantastic in-vivo and in-vitro effects, multi-functionality and the high science trends that have epitomised 2016.

#1 Active Ingredient of 2016: 28Extremoin by Bitop

In case boasting 100% protection from particulate matter as well as protection from ultrafine particles, airborne allergens, UV and blue light is not enough, this active material also has in-vivo evidence to claim:

  • Up to 40% wrinkle reduction within 4 weeks;
  • Over 40% increase in visco-elasticity;
  • Anti-inflammatory and anti-irritation benefits;
  • Up to 24% reduction in TEWL within 7 days;
  • Improvements to scalp condition and hair follicles in hair products.

It is also NaTrue and EcoCert approved, making it a truly multi-functional, anti-pollution, anti-ageing and protective active with impressive results suited to natural formulations. No wonder it took out the top spot!

#2 Active Ingredient of 2016: Neurophroline by Givaudan

Stress does not just include what we’re exposed to mentally, it also includes environmental pollutants, insufficient sleep and UV exposure.

Based on Wild Indigo extract, Neurophroline provides a total stress response with incredible anti-stress effects: it works specifically to break down cortisol production by skin cells (-70% within 2 hours, in vitro) whilst activating the release of β-endorphins (+163% within 24 hours, in vitro). This not only improves the epidermal matrix, but significantly reduces inflammation and redness (by boosting HMOX1 by 888%) and stimulates natural superoxide scavenger activity for advanced antioxidant and pollution protection (increases NQ01 by 528% within 2 days).

The visible effects are a dramatic improvement to skin tone within 2 weeks and up to 57% more luminous skin within 1 month, even when tested in polluted environments! It has particular affinity for reducing the appearance of redness and eye bags and evening out the skins complexion in even very stressful lifestyle and environmental conditions. A true solution to the 2016 lifestyle and environment we live in using a natural approach to neuro-cosmetics. 

#3 Active Ingredient of 2016: Reproage Peptide by Lipotec

As our skin ages, epidermal cell turnover slows and skin cells lose their regenerative capacity. An epigenetic regulator known as microRNA-145 specifically represses the activity of stem cell transcription factors, reducing the essential characteristic of stem cells that give them the ability to self-renew and differentiate (also referred to as a cells’ ‘stemness’).

mRNA-145 is found in higher levels in aged skin. Utilising epigenetic science to modulate mRNA-145 levels, Reproage peptide ‘reprograms’ cellular activity at the epidermal basal layer. This exciting peptide supports stemness for incredibly luminous, more radiant results to the complexion.

In-vivo results have shown Reproage Peptide rejuvenates epidermal self-renewal activity to behave up to 17 years younger and in doing so, provides dramatic skin smoothing anti-ageing skin benefits for a complete, and very noticeable anti-ageing effect. 

#4 Active Ingredient of 2016: Scelleye by LipoTrue

Utilising wild plant biosynthesis for high purity, natural and sustainable production, Scelleye is a plant insulin-like growth factor-1 peptide with specific affinity to the delicate skin of the eye area.

It has been shown to stimulate skin regeneration and re-densification, with up to 33% improvement in epidermal thickness after 9 days (ex vivo, skin explants). It has protective and detoxifying benefits for UV damaged proteins, modulates melanin content of dark circles and has been clinically proven to reduce crow’s feet wrinkles by up to 35.5% within just 14 days.

If you are looking to create a product targeting anti-ageing benefits specific to the eye area, this is definitely an active to investigate!

#5 Functional Ingredient of 2016: GoBlond by ChemyUnion

They say blondes have more fun, but unfortunately their hair does not. The sacrifice made to get blonde locks usually results in significant hair damage through the bleaching process… until GoBlond.

This material contains linseed extract along with sericin and fibroin, proteins found in silk, to not only protect hair during the bleaching process but also increase the lightening effect achieved. During application, this equates to a better bleaching effect and more manageable, stronger hair with less breakage; while after application it boosts manageability, softness, colour and shine. Now blondes can achieve beautiful colour with far less damage.

How can you get your hands on these revolutionary actives?

Contact the suppliers of these materials for full clinical data and material information for your next exciting development. Here’s to seeing these materials in your innovative launches of 2017!

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