Scientists develop novel facial serum demonstrating significant anti-ageing benefits

By Andrew MCDOUGALL contact

- Last updated on GMT

Clinical improvement: Results through photographic assessment after 7 and 28 days, in vivo. Study results in one volunteer participating in the clinical trial. Pictures depict the best visual results observed.
Clinical improvement: Results through photographic assessment after 7 and 28 days, in vivo. Study results in one volunteer participating in the clinical trial. Pictures depict the best visual results observed.

Related tags: Metabolism, Adenosine triphosphate

Researchers in France and Spain have developed a novel anti-ageing facial serum containing apple stem cell extract, pro-collagen lipopeptide, creatine, and urea, which has been shown to significantly improve skin condition.

The team, from Isdin Medical Department in Barcelona, and Laboratoire Dermscan in Lyon/Villeurbanne, claim the first visible results of a significant improvement to ageing skin signs was achieved after one week of use.

“The product seemed to optimize the metabolic functions in human senescent cultured fibroblast restoring a more efficient cell metabolism therefore contributing to the anti-ageing properties of the product,”​ they say.

Anti-ageing

Epithelial regeneration in skin is achieved by the constant turnover and differentiation of keratinocytes. Epidermal and dermal stem cells compartments are fundamental for the continuous renewal of the skin.

Plant-derived stem cell extracts are used in topical products for their potential anti-ageing and anti-wrinkle effects, and this inspiration led to the development of a new dermocosmetic product by this research team, and their study was published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology​.

The created product contains apple stem cell extract, urea, creatine and palmitoyl tripeptide-38 (Ureadin Fusion Serum Lift Antiarrugas, ISDIN S.A), and was assessed in vitro​ and in vivo​ to monitor its effects on the metabolic functions of human senescent fibroblasts and  the anti-aging effects by clinical and instrumental evaluation, respectively.

To do this, the team evaluated the effects of the serum on the mitochondrial reactive oxygen species (ROS) production in human senescent cultured fibroblasts measured at 0.1% and 1% using the Mitoread AntiOx mtROS method.

The scientists also evaluated the anti-ageing in vivo​ effect of the new serum applied on the face twice daily for 28 consecutive days; and assessed by clinical and instrumental evaluation in 32 women with sensitive skin bearing wrinkles on crow's feet.

The results showed a significant increase in oxygen consumption, cellular ATP level, and a reduction in extra-cellular lactate concentration at both 0.1% and 1%.

The product also significantly reduced the mitochondrial ROS production, and the clinical study showed a relevant anti-wrinkle effect in 71% of the treated women with visible effects in 68% of the subjects as soon as 7 days of treatment.

A significant increase in dermal density and skin elasticity was also observed.

“The use of this novel anti-ageing serum containing a unique combination of apple stem cell extract, pro-collagen lipopeptide, creatine, and urea demonstrated a significant improvement of aging skin signs with first visible results achieved after 1 week of use,”​ the research concludes.

“The in vitro data showed that the product seemed to optimize the metabolic functions in human senescent cultured fibroblast restoring a more efficient cell metabolism therefore contributing to the anti-ageing properties of the product.”

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