Moisturising cream better for dermal absorption of hyaluronic acid, says study

By Andrew MCDOUGALL contact

- Last updated on GMT

Moisturising cream better for dermal absorption of hyaluronic acid, says study

Related tags: Hyaluronic acid, Water, Emulsion

A research team in Poland has suggested that moisturising creams rather than ointments are better to carry hyaluronic acid for dermal absorption as they contain more water meaning the formulation is more stable.

The scientists from the Adam Mickiewicz University in Poznan say they have taken ‘significant steps’ towards finding out what form of hyaluronic acid would assure maximum effect when applied topically following their tests, which will ultimately help give consumers satisfaction and guarantee safety during application.

Hyaluronic acid is a component of skin tissue that is used in skin care products as a good ‘skin-identical’ ingredient that can boost skin's moisture content, reduce inflammation, have cell-communicating abilities, and help prevent moisture loss.

Investigation

In their study, the research team were looking to investigate the long-term stability of four emulsions, in creams and ointment form, developed for carrying hyaluronic acid​ for dermal penetration.

To do this, the stability of obtained formulations was analysed by multiple light scattering and laser diffraction methods.

The results showed that the moisturising creams were more stable than the ointments containing hyaluronic acid.

“The migration phenomenon of particles was observed in soft ointment with hyaluronic acid and the flocculation phenomenon was detected in ointment based on lanolin,”​ says the study.

“The larger the water content, the more stable formulation can be, due to hygroscopic properties of hyaluronic acid.”

Significant step

In conclusion the team says that the identification of instability phenomena was shortened dramatically using the optical method such as the multiple light scattering, and that even small changes in the stability of emulsion were determined very early.

The research states that the larger the water content of a hyaluronic acid formulation, the more stable it can be, due to the hygroscopic properties.

It adds that the presence of a less hydrophobic fatty acid derivate like polyoxyethylene stearyl ether in comparison with stearic acid when used in the oil phase may probably affect the emulsion stability, suggesting that the moisturizing creams may be more suitable than ointments.

 “We suggest that the moisturising creams may be more suitable than ointments to carry hyaluronic acid for dermal absorption,”​ the study concludes.

“These studies are a significant first step towards further exploration into what form of hyaluronic acid would assure maximum effect, give consumers satisfaction and guarantee safety during application.”

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