Brightenyl is activated, upon application, by the skin microbiote and shows fast and visible clinical results in 28-84 days, according to Induchem, including up to 18-fold reduction of UV spots, -150% reduction of skin darkness, -600% reduction of skin redness, and a 16-fold improvement of skin brightness.
Fabrice Lefèvre, Global Scientific Marketing Manager, tells CosmeticsDesign-Europe.com that the new ingredient relies on several innovations:
- the metagenomics analysis of the stratum microbium activities,
- the discovery that stratum microbium possess an alpha-glucosidase activity
- the rational design of a new chemical entity, THBG, based on the previous discovery, and on biocatalytic synthesis
“It also acts on 7 biological targets together: Free radicals, MITF, Nf-kB, Keratinocytes galactose receptor, PGE2, Cellular DNA (UV protection), and Tyrosinase,” he says.
“Brightenyl gives results like make-up (even and fair complexion) but without make-up.Last but not least, the manufacturing process of Brightenyl is patented.”
Developing for success
The development of this product began five years ago when Induchem acquired libragen, a biotech R&D company, specialising in biocatalysis and metagenomics.
The latest research with libragen was looking at the human gut microbiote, trying to understand in greater detail, the relationship between gut microflora and health status.
Having established skin care benefits and potential cosmetics applications, Lefèvre says that Brightenyl was developed to answer trends for skin tone improvement and multi-functionality.
“The regulation of skin pigmentation is a major request from consumers, and therefore from all cosmetic brands. In Asia, consumers expect to get a lighter skin, in Europe and USA they are looking for the removal/fading of pigmentation spots,” he tells us.
“However, whitening is not enough: consumers don't want to look pale. The real expectation is on skin tone uniformity: this is the reason why BB and CC cream have been so successful. But BB and CC also became popular as they answer another key request: multi-functionality.”
Tapping into these trends certainly got the active noticed, and it took home the Gold award at in-cosmetics last week for Best Ingredient, following up on last year’s Silver with Redensyl and a Gold in 2013 for Neodermyl.
“Being the winner of another innovation gold award is an amazing honour. It's not only a matter of being acknowledged by an independent jury of renown experts for the quality of our innovation and the customers' benefits of our products, but this is also a real recognition for all employees who have been working hard to make this happen,” comments Lefévre.
“This translates into a real business boosting effect, speeding up the product launch.”