L’Oreal and Evolva collaboration reaches first cosmetics ingredient milestone

By Andrew MCDOUGALL contact

- Last updated on GMT

L’Oreal and Evolva collaboration reaches first cosmetics ingredient milestone

Related tags: Cosmetics

L’Oreal and Evolva Holding have reached a milestone in their innovative cosmetics ingredient project, announcing that the first part of the research & development collaboration has been completed.

As a result, both parties have agreed to move into the next phase of the multi-year programme.

Under this collaboration, which started in February 2014​, Evolva and L’Oréal are applying the former’s innovative fermentation technology to develop a yeast strain optimised for sustainable and cost-effective production of a strategically important cosmetics ingredient.


With the completion of the first work package, Fabien Cabirol, L’Oreal’s new Global Head of Biotechnologies Department, says that with this partnership L’Oréal aims to leverage on Evolva’s strong technological platform to develop innovative cosmetic ingredients with perceivable performance and measurable sustainability benefits.

“L’Oréal in-house expertise combined with Evolva flexible yeast platform opens opportunities to meet the needs and aspirations of consumers,” ​he says.

Evolva CEO Neil Goldsmith adds: “We are pleased to have demonstrated to L’Oréal our capabilities, and the strength and elegance of our platform.”


The two companies announced the collaboration at the start of last year with the aim of co-developing novel biosynthetic production routes for an undisclosed ingredient with broad applications in the cosmetics industry.

The collaboration was originally meant to conclude in late 2016, but also includes an option to expand the ingredient focus.

L’Oréal is paying Evolva research fees during the project period, and the Switzerland-based firm is also eligible to receive milestone payments based on achieving research objectives.

Evolva claims that leveraging its proprietary yeast and fermentation platform, it can produce high-value ingredients that would otherwise be highly problematic or inaccessible to industry due to cost, functionality, supply chain, or sustainability issues.

Evolva is a pioneer in sustainable, fermentation-based approaches to ingredients for health, wellness and nutrition, with a portfolio that includes stevia, vanilla, saffron and resveratrol.

As well as developing its own proprietary ingredients, the Switzerland-headquartered firm also deploys its technology for partners.

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