IFSCC Coverage

The latest science has to offer - from green chemistry to skin care vaccines

By Michelle Yeomans

- Last updated on GMT

The latest science has to offer - from green chemistry to skin care vaccines

Related tags Skin care Skin

At the recent IFSCC cosmetology event, more than 450 scientific posters opened a window into what cosmetic scientists have been working on, from green chemistry to skin care vaccines.

Academic and undergraduate researchers, major companies, SMEs and start-ups presented their research work via a poster area at the conference in Paris last week.

Organisers of the Congress received nearly 700 lecture proposals, of which 464 posters were chosen to give insight into progress of areas like biochemistry, physical and green chemistry and cosmetology.

The Federation’s Vice-President, Claudie Willemin told CosmeticsDesign-Europe.com that this is the first year the Committee has seen such a high quality and volume of applications.

We wanted a congress that didn’t approach scientific advances in terms of fields of activity (anti-ageing, hair, sun exposure…) but one that really showed that cosmetology involves skills and knowledge which are valued outside the cosmetics sector,”​ Willemin explains. 

"200 Japanese, 100 Korean and 80 attendees from Brazil traveled to share with us their science, new research and also to increase their country's scientific level," ​she adds.

What’s new in cosmo labs?

‘Jardin de Granville’ : a designed rose for cosmetic applications': Institut de Chimie Organique et analytique

According to this France based Institute, ‘Jardin de Granville’ created by hybridization experts, has been shaped to answer to Parfums Christian Dior demand to be devoted to cosmetics. This new variety possessing clear pink delicate flower is resistant to common rose diseases.

Translated into extracts for anti-ageing luxury skin care products, the purpose of this research the team says is to determine the molecular potential to be able to access the most appropriate organ for the desired properties and to orient the extraction techniques.

"Specific analytics were developed to suit each extract polarity. Thus, by combining HPTLC, HPLC-DAD and UHPLC-HRMS, the molecular fingerprint of ‘jardin de Granville’ was established," ​the authors report.

 'An original strategy to develop click and green chemistry': Syntivia

Skin intrinsic ageing or photo ageing is closely related to the generation of reactive oxygen species induced by exposition to UV light. The use of antioxidant compounds of is a good way to slow down ageing and to decrease the risk of diseases like melanomas.

To discover new active ingredients it is possible to detect new molecules by testing each synthesized or extracted substance but this team chose not to examine them one by one but to study the complete family.

"This helps to understand the structure activity relationship between molecules. It also avoids missing interesting molecules which have potential unexpected activities. The development of parallel chemistry enabled an appreciable acceleration in the synthesis of new compounds hence boosting the emergence of new active molecules."

The researchers used a new generation automatic synthesizer (Accelerator SLT106-Chemspeed Technologies) which is able to perform the processes of classic chemistry in an automated and in parallel manner.

'Skin care vaccine, a new approach to skincare to induce multiple self-maintenance system by moisture peptide': Incospharm & Arysta Health & Nutrition Sciences

Natural moisturising factor (NMF) in the stratum corneum has a high moisture retaining efficacy and plays a major role in skin barrier function. It reduces due to ageing, chemical damages etc.

In the human skin pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) is recognised as one of the main components in NMF due to its carboxyl residue in the structure. To enhance those capacities, we have designed and developed new moisturising peptide INCI: Hexacarboxymethyl dipeptide-2, which consists of several PCA mimics with up to 7 carboxyl residues on a lysine-lysine backbone.

"This peptide is one kind of skin care vaccine is a cosmeceuticals ingredient that works as an anti-ageing ingredient,​" the scientists claim.

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