New anti-ageing ingredients and concentrated sunscreen from BASF

By Deanna Utroske

- Last updated on GMT

New anti-ageing ingredients and concentrated sunscreen from BASF

Related tags Sunscreen BASF

This week in Paris, France, the chemical company exhibited a sunscreen concentrate and two ingredients for skin rejuvenation derived separately from African bambara pea and chicory leaves.

The three trademarked components were developed to reverse and prevent familiar consequences of skin ageing.

Rejuvenation

BASF developed an active ingredient, derived from the African bambara pea, called Epigenist. The anti-ageing ingredient addresses a fact of ageing skin: the epidermis has fewer nerve fibers and subsequently less nerve activity.

The ingredient initiates the regrowth of nerve fibers, there by rejuvenating skin. The company reports that “after eight weeks of treatment with Epigenist, the skin complexion is enhanced, the skin surface is smoothed and the wrinkles are reduced comparatively to placebo treatment.”

Protein restoration

“BASF experts discovered recently, the integrity of the epidermis can be restored, if keratinocytes in the epidermis are enabled to differentiate in an optimal way.”

The protein lysyl oxidase or LOX  assists keratinocytes, epidermal cells, do this. And chicory leaf extract simulates the protein and supports differentiation without affecting cell production thanks to the transglutaminase 1 (TG1) and desmocollin 1 (DSC1) markers, according to the chemical company.

BASF calls their resulting ingredient LOX-AGE “a skin relief perfector.”

Calculating SPF with H20

The just-add-water sun protection concentrate, Uvinul Easy, aims to simply sunscreen manufacturing. The chemical company describes Uvinul Easy as “a transparent, oil based concentrate with UV filters and emulsifiers.”

The ingredient reduces in water to create products with SPF 6 through SPF 50 that brands then customize with thickeners and such. BASF experts predetermined the ratio of concentrate to water that accommodates that range of protection levels: “For making an SPF 30 sunscreen, for example, the concentrate needs to be diluted down to 30%….The right amount of UVA protection is automatically achieved,”​ according to the company.   

Uvinul is line of UV filtering chemicals presently sold in the European, Asian and South American markets. If the Sunscreen Innovation Act is enacted into law, as expected, the FDA will review and approve chemical ingredients like Uvinul Easy more swiftly. The act will essentially reorganize and accelerate the sunscreen ingredient approval process.

BASF endorsed the act last month; the company “looks forward to continuing to focus on innovation and the development of new UV filters that will provide US consumers with a wider array of safe and effective sunscreen products,” ​said Dirk Buengel, SVP of Care Chemicals for BASF in North America.

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