According to the company, pomegranate flowers were specifically chosen as they were identified to reduce MMP-1 mRNA gene expression in UVA irradiated and non-irradiated primary human dermal fibroblasts.
Due to this characteristic, the extract was combined with sodium ascorbyl phosphate into a single product, as SAP, a derivative of vitamin C, is said to be a well-known antioxidant and collagen booster.
Cosmetochem’s Dr. Jane Tiedtke told CosmeticsDesign-Europe.com; “To our knowledge there are no other cosmetic actives based on a pomegranate flower complex with both good in vitro and in vivo data.”
Colla-Gain is also said to increase skin density, smoothe the skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles while also protecting against UV exposure.
The need for balance
The balance between collagen breakdown and collagen synthesis plays a crucial role in the extrinsic and intrinsic process of skin ageing, according to the producer of plant extracts.
Environmental factors acting on the skin and genetically-determined processes cause an increase in collagen breakdown and at the same time a reduction in the synthesis of new collagen, which results in the increased appearance of wrinkles.
Tried and tested
Dr. Tiedtke highlights that two in vivo studies with consumer groups were carried out to test the efficacy of Colla-Gain on skin density and the reduction of wrinkles around the crow’s feet area of the eyes and the forehead.
After applying a cream formulation over a six month period, Tiedtke says ultrasonic skin density assessment and profilometric analysis of wrinkles were carried out on the groups using PRIMOS and photographic analysis.
Results showed that “Colla-Gain promoted collagen synthesis, reduced the breakdown of collagen and measurably and visibly reduced the depth of facial wrinkles caused by skin ageing,” she concluded.
In the last ten years pomegranate extract has been the raw material of choice for many cosmetic formulators. Its natural anti-inflammatory, antioxidant property has proved popular in products from moisturisers to anti-dandruff shampoos.