Colla-Gain launches anti-ageing pomegranate flower active

According to the company, pomegranate flowers were specifically chosen as they were identified to reduce MMP-1 mRNA gene expression in UVA irradiated and non-irradiated primary human dermal fibroblasts.

Due to this characteristic, the extract was combined with sodium ascorbyl phosphate into a single product, as SAP, a derivative of vitamin C, is said to be a well-known antioxidant and collagen booster.

Cosmetochem’s Dr. Jane Tiedtke told CosmeticsDesign-Europe.com; “To our knowledge there are no other cosmetic actives based on a pomegranate flower complex with both good in vitro and in vivo data​.”

Colla-Gain is also said to increase skin density, smoothe the skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles while also protecting against UV exposure.

The need for balance​

The balance between collagen breakdown and collagen synthesis plays a crucial role in the extrinsic and intrinsic process of skin ageing, according to the producer of plant extracts.

Environmental factors acting on the skin and genetically-determined processes cause an increase in collagen breakdown and at the same time a reduction in the synthesis of new collagen, which results in the increased appearance of wrinkles.

Tried and tested​

Dr. Tiedtke highlights that two in vivo​ studies with consumer groups were carried out to test the efficacy of Colla-Gain on skin density and the reduction of wrinkles around the crow’s feet area of the eyes and the forehead.

After applying a cream formulation over a six month period, Tiedtke says ultrasonic skin density assessment and profilometric analysis of wrinkles were carried out on the groups using PRIMOS and photographic analysis.  

Results showed that “Colla-Gain promoted collagen synthesis, reduced the breakdown of collagen and measurably and visibly reduced the depth of facial wrinkles caused by skin ageing​,” she concluded.

Pomegranate trend​

In the last ten years pomegranate extract has been the raw material of choice for many cosmetic formulators. Its natural anti-inflammatory, antioxidant property has proved popular in products from moisturisers to anti-dandruff shampoos.