EU researchers develop eco-dyes to be used in cosmetic products

As a result of the joint research and innovation initiative led by the Catholic University of Louvain, micro-organisms and enzymes from certain mushrooms were found to produce less toxic colour compounds in softer production conditions.

SOPHIED carried out research, analysis and pilot testing on 216 species of mushroom at seven universities, three research centres and sixteen SMEs across Europe.

Amongst those, 16 micro-organisms were selected for the treatment of effluents and ten for the synthesis of dyes.

Based on a biotechnological approach, the group then extracted the relevant enzymes from fungi using a nutrient-rich fluid bath. After removing the fungi, silica particles were added to the mix to stabilise it and prevent the dye from becoming an allergen.

One of the project’s objectives, they say was to “identify the dyes that would be the most interesting to develop for the cosmetics industry among others​.”

Dyes most produced in Western Europe are Acid 30%, Direct 2%, Reactive 22%​and Dispersed 27%.

According to SOPHIED “Epidemiological evidence exists to indicate regular and long term use of hair dyes for women can be associated with the development of bladder cancer, while during dyeing processes​.”

In its second year, the project selected ten dyes that are widely used by the cosmetics industry (red and orange) and textile (blue, yellow, black) to study the biosynthesis, pigmentation and their effects on the resulting products.

“The molecules produced were tested by an industrial partner, Setas (a producer of dyes in Turkey), while respecting the ISO international quality standards.”

As a result, SOPHIED say they have been successful in creating many new bio dyes; “yellow, red, orange, purple, blue, brown and green​.”

The ‘Proofs of Concept’ dyed items developed by the project were presented at the ‘European Research and Innovation Exhibition’ in Paris in June 2011.