Ingredients are the best starting point for entry into the nutricosmetics market

By Simon Pitman

- Last updated on GMT

Ingredients are the best starting point for entry into the nutricosmetics market

Related tags Scientific method

With the forthcoming Beauty From Within conference just two weeks away, CosmeticsDesign-Europe spoke to one of the event’s key speakers, Dr. Marie Bejot, founder of Oenobiol Sanofi opens up on the best starting point for new entrants.

Dr. Bejot’s presentation, Beauty Ingredients: Back To Science, will take an in depth look at the latest developments in research, regulation and products that target the nutricosmetics niche.

Taking a scientific approach the presentation will touch on topics such as opportunities arising from medical devices targeting slimming, latest developments in nutricosmetic ingredients, the need for scientific evidence and an up-date on EU regulation.

Starting point: ingredients

One of the biggest dilemmas facing companies trying to enter the nutricosmetics market is how to position a new product and how to tailor it to a specific consumer category. Dr. Bejot believes that considering the product’s ingredients is a good place to start.

“Our initial approach is to find the new specific ingredient preferably of natural origin responding to consumers needs. This ingredient has to be fully authorised within the European law as a food supplement or can be a registered medical device. The proprietary aspect is very important and exclusivity as well as patent issues have to be checked,”​ Dr. Bejot told CosmeticsDesign-Europe.

“Efficacy and consumer satisfaction must then be evaluated carefully by consumer and clinical research. The ingredient is put to test against main competitors on the market and must show a competitive advantage. For example, more efficacy, less adverse effects, better consumer acceptance and compliance.“
How to target the product at the consumer

Following on from this stage, the next crucial step is to consider how best to target the product at the consumer. Dr. Bejot believes that taking into consider the varying cultural patterns and consumer trends is vital to success.

“In France we see slimming and sun as the strongest categories whereas in Italy, now the first european market for beauty supplements, hair and slimming segments are the most important ones. That is why we perform a careful and constant analysis of Nielsen or IMS data depending on the markets,”​ she said.

“Not targeting growing and existing segments may lead to bad surprises. For example in France: -skin hydration has not performed well, although there was a strong rationale, underlined byclinical study.”

Bearing this in mind, Dr. Bejot draws attention to the fact that certain nutricosmetics categories have never really taken off, making specific reference to beauty supplements for men as well as cosmetic-supplement combination products.

Avoid the glaring pitfalls

Likewise, there are several aspects to the category that consumers consistently struggle with, which Dr. Bejot highlights as being consumers struggling with the fact that they may have to take a pill and a lack of perceived efficacy and questions over how natural the products might be.

Although certain markets such as Italy and Spain are now adopting nutricosmetic products at a far faster pace, Dr. Bejot also points out that consumers struggle with the perception that these products are not entirely necessary combined with a lack of confidence in their efficacy.

Lifting the lid on future trends and the direction of the category, Dr. Bejot highlighted a few key areas that she will expand on during the conference: “In my view slimming will do well thanks to the approved glucomannan generic claim: weight loss. Different formats can be developed. Pills, sachets and drinks. Medical devices will also outperform in the slimming category.”
The Beauty From Within con

ference will focus on various challenges behind the education and marketing of nutricosmetics to consumers as well as covering scientific validation, new product forms and categories and how to overcome the current regulation confusion.

For more information on speakers, the programme and to book your delegate place, please visit the conference website or email pbasreraprf@jeoz.pbz

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